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RVM225WLC01 General Electric Microwave - Overview

Diagrams for RVM225WLC01

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Light Bulb - 40W 130V – Part Number: WB36X10003
$23.60
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
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(28)
Part #WB36X10003
This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb that is manufactured to fit microwaves with small-base light bulb sockets. The light bulb illuminates the inside of the microwave while the microwave is running. You may need to replace this part if the existing one is burnt-out or broken. If the existing light bulb is broken, disconnect power to the microwave and remove the bulb base with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is a common wear item, so it is recommended to order a spare. These light bulbs are sold individually.
Light Socket - 250V 75W – Part Number: WB08X10016
$37.91
In Stock
Light Socket - 250V 75W
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(21)
Part #WB08X10016
This light bulb socket that is used in microwaves. The socket is meant to fit small-base light bulbs. * Please note: The light bulb is not included with this part and is sold separately. If the following symptoms occur, you may need to replace this part: existing socket is broken or cracked, light bulb is not turning on, or new light bulb does not work. Remember to unplug microwave before installing this part and refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions and a detailed diagram.
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
$47.40
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
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(49)
Part #WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly. NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15X322
No Longer Available
Door Handle
Part #WB15X322
This white door handle does not come with screws. You can use the existing ones or order new.
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
$48.45
In Stock
Monitor Door Switch
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Part #WB24X830
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB6X60
$56.33
In Stock
Microwave Rack Support – Part Number: WB06X10140
No Longer Available
Microwave Rack Support
Part #WB06X10140
Hood Damper Assembly – Part Number: WB06X10436
$46.34
Special Order
Hood Damper Assembly
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Part #WB06X10436
Introducing the Genuine OEM GE Appliances Vent Damper - a high-quality part specially designed for optimal performance. Crafted with precision, this notable accessory is vital in controlling and directing airflow through the vent duct. It's meticulously attached to the outer cabinet, forming a solid connection, ensuring a seamless operation of your appliance. This key part is commonly known as the Hood Damper Assembly, a significant component of your microwave. Before proceeding with the installation, ensure that the appliance is completely disconnected from all utilities to maintain safety. Trust in the quality and longevity that all GE products are known for.
Thermostat Cut-Out – Part Number: WB27X10195
$51.61
In Stock
Thermostat Cut-Out
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(2)
Part #WB27X10195
Also known as Thermostat or Humidity Sensor for Fault Code.
High Voltage Diode – Part Number: WB27X1160
$97.20
In Stock
High Voltage Diode
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(2)
Part #WB27X1160
This diode has a 1/4" female connection and an eyelet.
Tapping Screw – Part Number: WB1X1488
No Longer Available
Tapping Screw
Part #WB1X1488
This screw is sold individually.
Vent Thermostat – Part Number: WB27X709
$50.36
In Stock
Vent Thermostat
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(4)
Part #WB27X709
The thermostat opens and closes if it gets too hot to run the vent fan.

Common Symptoms of the RVM225WLC01

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Microwave door handle broken at one attaching screw
466 of 469 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Columbus, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed both screws to the broken handle, removed the handle, used pliers to remove a piece of broken handle remaining in the door, and installed the new handle with two screws.
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Handle broken on microwave door.
442 of 520 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Venice, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove two phillips head screws from inside the door, position replacement handle, insert two screws into new handle assembly.
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
320 of 387 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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