This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb that is manufactured to fit microwaves with small-base light bulb sockets. The light bulb illuminates the inside of the microwave while the microwave is running. You may need to replace this part if the existing one is burnt-out or broken. If the existing light bulb is brok...Read moreen, disconnect power to the microwave and remove the bulb base with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is a common wear item, so it is recommended to order a spare. These light bulbs are sold individually.
This light bulb socket that is used in microwaves. The socket is meant to fit small-base light bulbs. * Please note: The light bulb is not included with this part and is sold separately. If the following symptoms occur, you may need to replace this part: existing socket is broken or cracked, light bulb is not turning on, or new light bulb...Read more does not work. Remember to unplug microwave before installing this part and refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions and a detailed diagram.
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs cal...Read moreled terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly.
NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to...Read more lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Introducing the Genuine OEM GE Appliances Vent Damper - a high-quality part specially designed for optimal performance. Crafted with precision, this notable accessory is vital in controlling and directing airflow through the vent duct. It's meticulously attached to the outer cabinet, forming a solid connection, ensuring a seamless operati...Read moreon of your appliance. This key part is commonly known as the Hood Damper Assembly, a significant component of your microwave. Before proceeding with the installation, ensure that the appliance is completely disconnected from all utilities to maintain safety. Trust in the quality and longevity that all GE products are known for.
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The handle broke.
462 of 465 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Mary-Ann De Lancey from Keene, NH
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
One screw would not come out cleanly as the plastic housing from the broken handle had to fished out of the hole. Using pliers to assist with that, once the old plastic was removed, the new part inserted into the hole and using the same screws, I attached the new handle in probably less than 5 minutes. I was extremely pleased that the new
... Read more handle arrived in much less time than I thought it would...3 days from time of order to install!
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The handle came off. The door handle screws broke
440 of 518 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Ray from Sugar Land, TX
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
Easy replacement.!I used the tip of the screw driver to remove all the broken parts from the microwave. Cleaned the screw path and screwed the nuts into the handle.
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
320 of 387 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Marla from Arlington, TX
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
... Read more this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.