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RTG5243BW0 Roper Washer Dryer Combo - Overview

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Dryer Thermal Fuse – Part Number: WP3392519
$17.15
In Stock
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(378)
Part #WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A
$21.45
In Stock
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
★★★★★
★★★★★
(169)
Part #285753A
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
M Series New Style Coil Kit – Part Number: 279834
$28.42
In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(158)
Part #279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Door Catch Kit – Part Number: 279570
$8.55
In Stock
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(136)
Part #279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, you won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this part is malfunctioning, you may not be able to open or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is closing, but if it is not latching properly you won’t be able to start your drying cycle. You should replace this part as soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement part features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump – Part Number: WP3363394
$43.18
In Stock
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
★★★★★
★★★★★
(115)
Part #WP3363394
The direct drive drain pump (Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump, Drain Pump, Washer Drain Pump, Water Pump) removes water from the washer during the drain cycle without the use of a belt. The pump is supposed to drain the water from the washer; if the water isn’t draining or if there is a leak, you may have a problem with your pump. You must replace this part if there is a blockage or clog. Although the symptoms may point to a malfunctioning drain pump, there could actually be a problem with one of the connecting hoses. This pump connected directly to the motor, and comes in white plastic. This replacement part features 1 direct drive water pump with 2 ports for water to pass through: a large one and a smaller one.
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit – Part Number: 349241T
$18.22
In Stock
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(150)
Part #349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket – Part Number: 285805
$32.63
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(145)
Part #285805
The water inlet valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm, or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. This part could have either a blue or green-colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half-inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads. You may have a faulty valve if your washer is leaking, has no hot or cold water, will not stop filling with water, will not fill with water, fills and drains at the same time, or is noisy. To confirm that the valve is faulty, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the inlet valve is defective.
Washer Clutch Assembly – Part Number: 285785
$38.96
In Stock
Washer Clutch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(92)
Part #285785
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly – Part Number: WP691366
$16.07
In Stock
Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly
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★★★★★
(24)
Part #WP691366
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
Igniter Kit – Part Number: 279311
$32.63
On Order
Igniter Kit
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★★★★★
(43)
Part #279311
If your dryer will not heat, takes too long to dry, or does not provide enough heat, you might want to replace your igniter kit. This silicone carbide igniter with ceramic holder kit includes the 3-inch flat igniter, bracket, 4-inch wire leads, and the plug. The kit can replace both round and flat igniters and is used for many gas clothes dryers. Be sure to disconnect the power source from your dryer before you do this repair. The igniter is located within the burner assembly, so you will require tools to complete the repair. You will need a putty knife, a small flat blade screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a 5/16 socket with a ratchet.
Roller Support Tri-Ring – Part Number: WPW10512946
$11.77
In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring
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(5)
Part #WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor – Part Number: WP338906
$35.80
In Stock
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
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★★★★★
(12)
Part #WP338906
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.

Manuals & Care Guides for RTG5243BW0

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Common Symptoms of the RTG5243BW0

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Dryer was working, but no heat.
3067 of 3491 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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No movement from Basket & agitator
1124 of 1228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Wayne, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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No heat but would run otherwise
927 of 1023 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from Grassvally, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and did n't take but 15-20 minutes.
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