This 120 volt, 60 hertz defrost timer switches the refrigerator into a 30 minute defrost cycle after eight hours of compressor run time. The cycle allows the heater to clear frost from the evaporator so air can circulate. A faulty timer may allow frost buildup that restricts airflow and leaves the refrigerator or freezer too warm. It may ...Read morealso fail to return the appliance to cooling. Confirm the timer fault before replacement, since other defrost components can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the control. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This evaporator fan motor drives the fan that circulates cold air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. It uses a center hub mount and rotates clockwise. The shaft measures 1/8 inch in diameter and 1.25 inches long. A motor that stops running or makes unusual squealing noises may reduce airflow and leave compartments too warm...Read more. Check the blade, mounting parts, and surrounding area as well, since other faults can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the fan assembly and follow the kit instructions for mounting and wiring. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This evaporator fan blade moves cooled air through the refrigerator or freezer compartments when driven by the fan motor. A cracked, warped, or loose blade may vibrate, strike nearby parts, or fail to move enough air. Unusual ticking or humming noises and warmer compartment temperatures may be reasons to inspect the fan assembly. Check fo...Read morer ice buildup and motor or mounting problems as well, since these can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the blade and follow the appliance instructions for fitting it securely on the motor shaft. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This plastic ice cube tray holds water for freezing into 12 cubes at a time. Channels help water spread evenly during filling, while corner supports allow trays to stack securely in the freezer. The tray measures approximately 11 inches long and 4.5 inches wide and is sold individually. Its flexible design allows frozen cubes to be releas...Read moreed by hand. Cracks or splits may let water leak before it freezes and are reasons to replace the tray. Check the available freezer space against the tray dimensions before ordering. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This filter drier removes moisture and traps small particles in the refrigerator sealed refrigerant circuit. It helps keep dirt, metal fragments, and moisture from moving through the cooling system. The component measures approximately 11 inches long. A blocked or faulty filter drier may restrict refrigerant flow and contribute to poor co...Read moreoling even while the compressor runs. These symptoms can also come from other sealed system faults, so confirm the failed component before replacement. Match the filter and tubing connections to the appliance service requirements before selecting the replacement. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Easy
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including th
... Read moree brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Tad from Lancaster, OH
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc
... Read more. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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Refrigerator ran frequently and freezer door was sagging
38 of 46 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dale from Pevely, MO
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I pulled off the old door gasket which came off really easy. I was hoping the new one would go on as easy as just popping it in place but it didnt work. I had to remove the inside door panel. The gasket wouldnt lay entirely flat in the inside groove so I used a bead of RTV around the entire circumference which helped to hold it in place w
... Read morehile reattaching the panel back onto the door. The screws fit on the under side of the magnetic portion of the gasket. In order to access the screw holes the gasket has to be lifted which sometimes causes the gasket to pull from the lip on the back side of the panel making the RTV get everywhere. After every screw was in place and lightly tightened the panel had to be adjusted to allow for the proper closing of the door. This was the worst part, fortunatly the screws left a slight indentation of where they were before I removed them so it gave me a nice reference. The hinge part of the new gasket requires a lubricant so it wont bind up when the door is closed. I didnt know about this until my order arrived and a part number was recommended for the type of lube. I just used Vasolene and it works fine. The pin bearing was really easy. Just unload the contents from the door, mine was the freezer door. I popped off the cap covering the screws and removed the screws while holding the door so it wouldnt drop on the floor. Once off I used a flat head screwdriver to pry out the old one and a light tap of a hammer to replace it with the new. I put it all together the way it came off. Now my fridge runs much less and the freezer door doesnt sag.