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RT217MCD3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for RT217MCD3
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$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This 120 volt, 60 hertz defrost timer switches the refrigerator into a 30 minute defrost cycle after eight hours of compressor run time. The cycle allows the heater to clear frost from the evaporator so air can circulate. A faulty timer may allow frost buildup that restricts airflow and leaves the refrigerator or freezer too warm. It may ...Read morealso fail to return the appliance to cooling. Confirm the timer fault before replacement, since other defrost components can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the control. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
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$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
Clipped to the evaporator tubing, this refrigerator defrost thermostat helps limit heater operation during the automatic defrost cycle. It allows the heater circuit to operate when the coils are cold and opens the circuit once they reach the cutoff temperature, helping prevent overheating. A faulty thermostat may interrupt defrost heating...Read more, allowing frost to accumulate and block airflow. This can contribute to warmer food compartments or longer running times. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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$14.89
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
Part #3206165
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the right side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
$106.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
Part #5300158289
This evaporator fan motor drives the fan that circulates cold air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. It uses a center hub mount and rotates clockwise. The shaft measures 1/8 inch in diameter and 1.25 inches long. A motor that stops running or makes unusual squealing noises may reduce airflow and leave compartments too warm...Read more. Check the blade, mounting parts, and surrounding area as well, since other faults can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the fan assembly and follow the kit instructions for mounting and wiring. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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$20.85
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
Part #3206166
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the left side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
$53.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
Part #5308000010
This evaporator fan blade moves cooled air through the refrigerator or freezer compartments when driven by the fan motor. A cracked, warped, or loose blade may vibrate, strike nearby parts, or fail to move enough air. Unusual ticking or humming noises and warmer compartment temperatures may be reasons to inspect the fan assembly. Check fo...Read morer ice buildup and motor or mounting problems as well, since these can cause similar symptoms. Disconnect power before accessing the blade and follow the appliance instructions for fitting it securely on the motor shaft. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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$31.47
In Stock
Light Socket
Part #218906802
Interior lighting depends on a secure connection between the bulb and its power supply. This refrigerator light socket holds the bulb in place and provides the electrical contacts needed to illuminate the compartment. Cracked plastic, damaged contacts, or a broken locking tab may leave the bulb loose or prevent reliable lighting. Replacin...Read moreg a damaged socket helps restore bulb support and electrical connection. The socket mounts into the light housing and connects to the appliance wiring through metal terminals. Disconnect power before handling the socket or wiring. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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No Longer Available
Fresh Food Door Gasket
Part #218730609
This white fresh food door gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
$25.25
In Stock
$13.73
In Stock
Ice Cube Tray
Part #215667501
This plastic ice cube tray holds water for freezing into 12 cubes at a time. Channels help water spread evenly during filling, while corner supports allow trays to stack securely in the freezer. The tray measures approximately 11 inches long and 4.5 inches wide and is sold individually. Its flexible design allows frozen cubes to be releas...Read moreed by hand. Cracks or splits may let water leak before it freezes and are reasons to replace the tray. Check the available freezer space against the tray dimensions before ordering. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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No Longer Available
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Right Side
Part #5304402687
Common Symptoms of the RT217MCD3
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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these parts
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people
found this instruction helpful.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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