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RS36*R1 General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for RS36*R1

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Range Infinite Heat Switch Kit – Part Number: WB21X36771
$53.20
In Stock
Range Infinite Heat Switch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
Part #WB21X36771
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
Tilt-Lock Hinge-Mounted Surface Burner - 8" – Part Number: WB30X354
$81.50
In Stock
Tilt-Lock Hinge-Mounted Surface Burner - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WB30X354
This kit includes an 8", three wire, 2450W surface element. This low rise element has an attached trim ring, and a terminal block with all three-wire units.
Tilt Lock Hinge Mounted Surface Unit - 6" – Part Number: WB30X356
$64.73
On Order
Tilt Lock Hinge Mounted Surface Unit - 6"
Part #WB30X356
This 6-inch high-rise heating element offers fast and even heat for electric ranges. Ideal for a variety of cooking needs, it features a raised coil design that improves heat distribution. Installation is simple and requires no special tools. The element has a durable build and a neutral metallic finish.
Bake Element – Part Number: WB44X5043
$58.73
In Stock
Selector Switch – Part Number: WB22X5134
No Longer Available
Selector Switch
Part #WB22X5134
Broil Element (16" long x 12" wide) – Part Number: WB44X5074
No Longer Available
Broil Element (16" long x 12" wide)
Part #WB44X5074
This wide mounting oven broil element with push on terminals is 16 inches long and 12 inches wide. The depth of the terminals is 2-1/4 inches and they are 2 inches apart. Use it for your GE brand oven.
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB24K2
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB24K2
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB21X5212
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB21X5212
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB19X5225
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB19X5225

Common Symptoms of the RS36*R1

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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50+ Yr Old Cooktop Burner had one of its two coils burn out
26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Smyrna, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!
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Large burner would operate on high setting only.
22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ernest from Bellevue, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
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The oven's bottom bake element burned up
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from Los Alamos, NM
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
First I turned the circuit breaker switch off for the stove unit. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I attached the new element, bolting the wires into place and then screwed the element back into place on the back wall of the oven. I flipped the breaker switch back on, and turned on the oven. I was done in roughly 15 minutes. The most difficult part was having to shine a flash light into the oven to replace the part, and negotiating the hard cold kitchen floor.
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