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RK966G*02 Hotpoint Range - Overview

Diagrams for RK966G*02

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Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp – Part Number: WB27X7
$21.45
In Stock
Ceramic Fuse - 15 Amp
Part #WB27X7
Electronic Clock and Timer Kit – Part Number: WB19X10006
$355.08
Special Order
Electronic Clock and Timer Kit
Part #WB19X10006
This electronic clock replaces the mechanical clocks with a more reliable digital timer. As per the manufacturer, this part should be installed by appliance repair person.
Door Latch Solenoid – Part Number: WB24X5097
No Longer Available
Door Latch Solenoid
Part #WB24X5097
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB24K2
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB24K2
UNKNOWN – Part Number: WB24X5164
No Longer Available
UNKNOWN
Part #WB24X5164
SWITCH DOOR – Part Number: WB24X5167
$118.52
Special Order
SWITCH DOOR
Part #WB24X5167
Selector Switch – Part Number: WB22X5123
No Longer Available
Selector Switch
Part #WB22X5123
START SWITCH – Part Number: WB24X5083
$78.77
Special Order
START SWITCH
Part #WB24X5083
RECTIFIER – Part Number: WB27X5070
No Longer Available
RECTIFIER
Part #WB27X5070
TRANSFORMER, FILAMENT – Part Number: WB27X5090
No Longer Available
TRANSFORMER, FILAMENT
Part #WB27X5090
TRASNFORMER - HI-VOLTAGE – Part Number: WB27X5096
No Longer Available
TRASNFORMER - HI-VOLTAGE
Part #WB27X5096
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB24X108
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB24X108

Common Symptoms of the RK966G*02

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Electronic Timer went out and Top Oven No Longer worked
60 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Owings Mills, MD
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove b efore the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.
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Mechanical/electrical clock/timer not working
29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.
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Old mechanical timer worn out.
26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore from Atwater, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.
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