The broil element is located at the top of the oven and gives off heat in order to bake evenly. If you notice that the element is not heating up or is not cooking evenly it could be because it is broken or burnt out. The depth of the screw-on terminals is 2-3/4 inches and they are 1-1/4 inches apart. Does not include mounting bracket. All...Read more you need for this simple repair is small screwdriver. To complete this repair, you will need to first turn the oven off (or shut off the house circuit breaker), remove the two screws that are holding the old element in place, remove the two wires from the old part, and then connect them to the new part and screw back into place.
This 6-inch stove surface element features a durable coil design that delivers steady, reliable heat for everyday cooking. It’s an ideal replacement when a burner no longer heats properly or warms unevenly. Designed for standard electric ranges without Sensi-Temp technology, this element helps restore consistent cooking performance with a quick, easy installation.
You won't find an "off" position on this dual range thermostat because the "off" function of this thermostat is controlled by the selector switch. This thermostat operates on a range of 150 degrees to 550 degrees Fahrenheit, and is limited by your range's self cleaning temperature. Use it for your GE brand range or stove.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!View More
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Large burner would operate on high setting only.
22 of 28 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Ernest from Bellevue, NE
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Socket set
1. Removed the back panel. 2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time. 3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range. 4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Broiler Element Burned Out
17 of 19 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Richard from Vestal, NY
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has
... Read moreself-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Right front burner out.
10 of 14 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Larry from Prairie Village, KS
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or s
... Read moreo and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.