This light bulb is located on the inside of your microwave. The bulb is behind the top grill. It will need to be replaced when it has burnt out and no longer works. Unplug the unit before beginning th...
$22.15
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This is a replacement grease filter for your microwave. Sometimes known as the air filter, this part fits underneath your microwave and catches grease. As a result, your grease filter can become clogg...
$18.87
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The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
$45.34
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The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is ...
$17.46
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Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Rem...
$37.02
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The mounting hardware is not included. This is the mounting plate only.
$113.23
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Questions And Answers for PNM1971SR1SS
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Joseph
December 3, 2019
The display is very dim hard to read what part is that so i can replace it
For model number PNM1971SR1SS
Hello Joseph and thanks for writing.
You have an aging, failing capacitor PS239120 on the control board. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Hello JB and thanks for writing.
For your convenience, we have attached the link to your manual with repair instruction. We hope this helps. Good luck with your repair
https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/assets/manuals/3194332F540CF06A2D746C27DB479DA68B47E70B.pdf
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Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
... Read more this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
First I removed the single screw holding the lens assembly in place. Then I lowered the assembly and tilted it until it came out. To remove the existing cracked glass lens there were four tabs bent down on it. By hand I lifted each tab just enough to remove the broken lens. I then replaced the broken lens with the new one and re-bent
... Read morethe tabs down by hand to secure them to the new lens.
The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.
You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.
Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.
Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.
Turned of f the circuit breaker to the microwave. Unscrewed the cover (1 screw!) popped out the old bulbs and plugged in the new ones, using the bubblewrap as a handle to be sure my skin didn't touch the light bulbs so the oil from my hands didn't damage or shorten the life of the new bulbs. Turned the circuit back on. That's it!
