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PCB940DF2WW General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for PCB940DF2WW

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
$16.05
In Stock
Lid Bumper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
Interlock Switch – Part Number: WD21X10261
$37.87
In Stock
Interlock Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WD21X10261
The interlock switch may also be referred to as a belt switch. This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the appliance from operating when the door is open. This is a part for your dryer. The interlock switch senses the door is shut and the dryer can begin. This part might need to be replaced if your dryer is not starting or is in process while the door is open. The black rectangular part of the switch is approximately 2 inches long and a 1/2-inch wide with two gold plates on either end. This is a genuine OEM part that is sourced right from the manufacturer.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Door Strike – Part Number: WE1X1192
$16.28
In Stock
Door Strike
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WE1X1192
TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the door will not lock properly and not only will this cause the door to swing open, but it won’t allow the dryer to start properly. It is a small piece of metal, about 1 inch in length and is sold individually.
Door Handle Fastener – Part Number: WR01X11007
$16.05
In Stock
Door Handle Fastener
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WR01X11007
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB23T10015
$40.51
In Stock
Oven Sensor
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★★★★★
(20)
Part #WB23T10015
The function of the oven sensor is to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice that the oven is too hot or too cold, or it is not heating evenly, you may need to replace the oven sensor. The oven sensor is typically located in the back of the oven so you will most likely need to pull your oven out to access it. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair. Be sure to disconnect the power source and shut off the gas valve before doing this repair.
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
$23.16
In Stock
Light Socket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(19)
Part #WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty socket. It is important to determine if the light bulb is simply burned out, or if the socket is causing the issue. Be sure to disconnect your refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. This socket is black in color and is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Drawer Support – Part Number: WB02K10158
$16.40
In Stock
Drawer Support
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WB02K10158
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficiently, you could have a damaged or missing drawer support. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually. To replace the support, simply remove the oven drawer, and unscrew the front support on the sides of the oven. Then, simply screw the new part in and replace the drawer to complete your repair.
M-Series Primary Dual Coil Gas Valve – Part Number: WE4X692
$49.18
In Stock
M-Series Primary Dual Coil Gas Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WE4X692
This 'M' series coil is both a boosting as well as a holding coil. It has three terminals.
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass – Part Number: WB25T10002
$16.07
In Stock
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB25T10002
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main reason to replace the oven bulb lens cover is if it is cracked, damaged, or missing. Be sure that the lens cover is cool to the touch before you begin this repair. To remove the lens cover simply turn it counterclockwise until you can remove it. Replace it with a new cover and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. This is an OEM part sourced from the manufacturer, and it is sold individually.
Interlock Plunger – Part Number: WD12X10271
No Longer Available
Interlock Plunger
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #WD12X10271
This is a replacement interlock plunger for your dishwasher. The interlock plunger actuates the door latch switch, which allows the door to latch, which sends a signal to the electronic control board, indicating that the door is closed. If the plunger is damaged or missing, your door may not latch properly, and your dishwasher may not start. The plunger itself is a small piece of white plastic approximately 2 inches in length. You may also need to replace the spring in the door latch assembly while completing this repair. Be sure to disconnect power to the dishwasher before you begin this repair.

Common Symptoms of the PCB940DF2WW

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No power to the fan and compressor
222 of 302 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not makin g it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
57 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal l. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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