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P75751-10W Amana Washer - Overview

Diagrams for P75751-10W

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Retaining Ring – Part Number: WP23748
$12.85
In Stock
Retaining Ring
Part #WP23748
The metal retaining ring, which is under an inch long, holds the rear wheels on the axels of the dryer. The main reason why it would need to replaced is if the retaining ring has sprung out of place or is damaged. Some the symptoms could be that your dryer does not tumble, it makes a loud buzzing noise, or if it pumps, but will not spin. The tools needed for this project are a putty knife, 5/16 nut driver, and snap ring pliers. Refer to the installation video and diagram for further instructions and guidance. Customers ranked this replacement project as easy.
Thrust – Part Number: WPW10121334
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$7.47
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Lid Check Switch – Part Number: WP207166
$45.29
In Stock
Lid Check Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
Part #WP207166
This lid switch check is used in washers to detect if the washer lid is open or closed. This prevents a cycle from spinning when the lid is still open and is also used to start your washer once a certain water level is reached. If your washer will not start, agitate, drain, or fill with water, replacing the switch can be a solution to the problem. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning this installation project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance.
Lid Switch Assembly – Part Number: WP22001682
No Longer Available
Lid Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(24)
Part #WP22001682
This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long) – Part Number: WP28808
$57.38
On Order
V-Style Drive Belt (32.5 inches long)
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WP28808
This v-style drive belt is thirty-two and a half inches long and half of an inch wide.
Adjustable Leveling Leg – Part Number: 22003428
$17.15
In Stock
Adjustable Leveling Leg
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #22003428
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, make sure the 4 levelling legs are even. Adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Your washer should be kept as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or it might have threaded legs all around. Make sure the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This genuine OEM replacement part is sold individually, so be sure to order the amount you need.
Spring Retaining Clip – Part Number: WP22001650
$9.62
In Stock
Spring Retaining Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP22001650
This spring retaining clip is just under 1 inch long. The clip is made entirely of metal and is attached to the back wall of the washer, under the console. If your washer is vibrating and louder than usual during the wash cycle, your spring retaining clip could be faulty or damaged. Check the clip for visible damage, wear, and rust. If you notice any signs of damage, the part should be replaced. Remember to disconnect the power from your washing machine before starting this repair.
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
$9.62
In Stock
Hose Clamp
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WPY014874
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WPY014874
Sold Individually.
Inlet Hose - 5 FT – Part Number: WP89503
$19.30
In Stock
Inlet Hose - 5 FT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP89503
This hose can handle hot or cold water and is five feet long.

Common Symptoms of the P75751-10W

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Washer was dead and would not turn on
109 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Suleman from Canoga Park, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
Well the washer died and would not turn on in the middle of a wash cycle. Absolutely dead. I disconnected it from power and opened up the front panel on which all the control switches and knobs are mounted. This is removed by unscrewing 4 screws at the top of the washer.

Checked the fuse, and found blown. Replaced the fuse, cl osed the panel and plugged it in. Still not working. Checked the Check switches and found the Check Switch really limp. Checked with Digital Multimeter and found no continuity at either position. Unscrewed the check switch. Removal and re inspection with DMM of the check switch confirmed it was bad. Opened up the check switch and found contacts were blown.

Installed a new check switch making sure all the connecting wires go in the right places. The wiring diagram in the washer was very helpful in doing so since u dont want these wires reversed. Adjusted the plunger which operates the check switches when the lid is opened to make sure it is not over or under operating the switches. This is done by loosening the bolt holding down the check switch assembly and slidint the whole assembly forwards or backwards till the plunger has just enough push on the switches. This is done to avoid the plunger from exerting excessive pressure on the check switch and the safety switch in lid open or lid closed position. (both switches are operated by the same plunger according to the lid position)

Closed panel cover and plugged the washer in. There u go, it was alive again!
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The washer wouldn't start unless you slammed the lid shut.
84 of 99 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Houston, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I suspected the lid switch right away. Where I went wrong was in thinking that I had to get to it from below. After going to all the trouble of removing the front panel and detaching the top panel, I discovered that it was located inside the control section at the top of the appliance. It only took a few minutes to remove four screws and gain access to the old switch assembly and swap it out with the new one. One thing to note; the new switch assembly has to be set in exactly the right place along a slotted channel in order for both contacts to be activated properly. It's not difficult to find the right spot, but you have to do it consciously.
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Frayed V-belt
63 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Milton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, r emove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.
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