This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both bake and broil elements, and it can replace both short and long igniters. However, it cannot replace round style oven igniters. If your igni...Read moreter glows for 90 seconds or more without igniting the burner, this means it is too weak to open the valve. The element in your igniter may have shorted it and it might not glow at all, or it might only glow orange or red. It needs to glow white hot; if it cannot get hot enough the gas will not be released from the safety valve and it will be impossible to light the burner in your oven. This kit includes the igniter, ceramic wire nuts, an insulation pad, a metal bracket, a variety of plug ends, and an instruction sheet. The body length is 3 3/4 inches, and the element inside is approximately 1 1/2 inches. This replacement part has an amperage range of 3.3 to 3.6. The element inside this igniter is extremely fragile, do not touch it. Before you start repairing your oven or range, make sure you have unplugged it and shut off the gas supply.
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your oven will not start, element will not heat, the gas ignitor does not light, and/or gas spreads a smell. Make sure to rotate the burner asse...Read morembly clockwise to release the burner from the top. Please note: this part has been updated and the gasket seal is no longer required. Make sure to unplug the oven before installing this part and wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the range doors for the most effective performance. This seal is black in color and is made of rubber. If your oven is not heating evenly, has lit...Read moretle to no heat when baking, or is too hot, replacing the seal can solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are needle nose pliers. Make sure the oven is cool before starting this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
This part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original part. : This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
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Oven would not work but the Broiler did
337 of 374 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Ferndale, MI
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f
... Read moreound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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Oven would'nt light
131 of 144 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Charles from Charlestown, RI
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve
... Read morefor the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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oven failed to light
71 of 79 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Beryl from Dawsonville, GA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws
... Read more that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on. Ta-Dah!