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MRT11CRAY0 Uni Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for MRT11CRAY0
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$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance...Read more. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
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$56.05
In Stock
Run Capacitor
Part #5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy ...Read moreproject. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
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$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repa...Read moreir, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
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$53.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
Part #5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of p...Read morelastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
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$25.25
In Stock
$13.73
In Stock
Ice Cube Tray
Part #215667501
The ice cube tray is made of plastic, is white in color, and is sold individually. This is a part for your freezer. The ice cube tray is sturdy but flexible to allow you to easily release the ice once it is frozen. The ice cube tray is what holds the water that eventually freezes into ice before being used. This tray measures approximatel...Read morey 11 inches long and 4 1/2 inches wide and holds 12 cubes at one time. The frigid temperature of the freezer can cause these trays to crack over time. This part is genuine and comes right from the manufacturer.
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No Longer Available
Door Hinge Pin Bearing
Part #218519300
This white hinge pin bearing pivots the freezer and refrigerator door.
$39.82
In Stock
Filter - Drier
Part #5303305677
A filter-drier in a refrigerator has two essential functions. The first is to absorb system contaminants, such as water, which can create acids. The second is to provide physical filtration. This means trapping moisture, small metal chips, and dirt found in the refrigerant gas. If your refrigerator motor is constantly running, but the ref...Read morerigerator is not getting cold, the issue could be due to a damaged or faulty filter-drier. Faulty filter-driers are sometimes the cause for abnormal freezer compartment temperatures and partially frosted evaporators. This filter-drier is approximately 11 inches long. Remember to disconnect the power from your refrigerator before beginning this repair.
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$37.52
In Stock
Door/Light Switch
Part #5309918806
This is a door/light switch and it is a replacement part for your refrigerator. This part is activated as you open and close your refrigerator door. When the switch is activated and the door is open it will turn the light on inside your appliance, and when you close the door the switch will deactivate the light. Before purchasing this par...Read moret, you may test it for continuity to determine if your current switch is defective and needs replacing. This model is white in color and measures to be roughly one inch thick, almost two inches high, and almost 1.5 inches deep, with a male end plug.
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$24.15
Special Order
No Longer Available
$62.37
In Stock
Aluminum Heater Strap
Part #5308000110
This strap is designed for use with the evaporator in your refrigerator. The function of this part is to hold wires, tubes, defrost heaters and other parts in place. If you notice that any of these parts are not held in place properly, you will most likely need to replace the refrigerator strap. This part is made entirely of thin metal. T...Read morehe part is very bendable, and the smaller end is designed to fit inside the large one. This part is sold individually. It is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy.
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Common Symptoms of the MRT11CRAY0
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Noisy
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge too cold
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Light not working
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Frost buildup
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Doesn’t stop running
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Clicking sound
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Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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