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MRSF - Overview

Models starting with MRSF

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Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter – Part Number: EDR1RXD1
$84.45
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(111)
Part #EDR1RXD1
The EDR1RXD1 water filter provides clean, fresh-tasting water by reducing contaminants such as lead, chlorine, and particulates. Designed for easy installation, this filter ensures your refrigerator water and ice are safe and refreshing with every use
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10015
$22.52
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(31)
Part #WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10014
$18.22
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
Door Handle End Cap – Part Number: WB7X7183
No Longer Available
Door Handle End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
Part #WB7X7183
This oven door handle end cap is used on both the left and right hand sides. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Capacitor – Part Number: WPW10662129
$45.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Capacitor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(44)
Part #WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Refrigerator Ice Bin Auger Drum – Part Number: 4388736
$53.20
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Bin Auger Drum
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
Part #4388736
This white ice bin auger drum comes with a washer.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$30.53
In Stock
Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(40)
Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Oven Handle End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: WB07X10034
$46.21
In Stock
Oven Handle End Cap - Left or Right Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WB07X10034
This oven handle end cap connects to your oven door handle, and acts as the joint that connects it to the oven door. This part is made of black plastic and can be used as the left or right-side end cap. If your oven door handle is loose or disconnected, this part may fix the problem. The end cap will need to be screwed into the oven door itself, but simply snaps in to the door handle. This part is sold individually.
Refrigerator Ice Bucket – Part Number: WPW10670845
$97.14
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Bucket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(67)
Part #WPW10670845
This refrigerator ice bucket is a genuine replacement component designed to store ice produced by the icemaker before dispensing. Compatible with a wide range of models from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Maytag, and Amana, it is constructed from durable plastic to withstand regular use. The container is sold as a standalone part and does not include the auger or other internal components. Replacing a cracked or missing ice bucket helps restore proper ice storage and dispensing functionality. Installation is straightforward and typically requires no tools—simply follow the instructions in your owner's manual to ensure proper fit and alignment.
Crisper Drawer – Part Number: W11162443
$111.56
On Order
Crisper Drawer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(26)
Part #W11162443
This is a manufacturer-made crisper drawer for your refrigerator. Crisper drawers are used to store fruits and vegetables at different humidity levels than the rest of your fridge. If your current crisper drawer is cracked or broken, it will need replacing immediately to ensure your food lasts as long as possible. This crisper drawer is made of clear and frosted plastic, and measures approximately 16.5" x 16.3" x 9.05" (Width x Depth x Height). This crisper drawer is sold individually and does not come with any other drawers or parts.

Common Symptoms of models starting with MRSF

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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
441 of 556 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
205 of 254 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from seaford, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed Ice bin from Fridge

Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six

Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod

Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.

Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft

Remov ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order

Removed Ice propeller and installed new part

Put back together in opposite order

Easy
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