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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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Model has been saved to My Models.
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no ...
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, eleme...
The burner head cap with spark electrode directs the gas to the front and back burner heads and will equally distribute the gas across cooking areas. This part can help the following symptoms: if your...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the ...
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the ra...
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My
... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed t
... Read morehat rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.
I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.
I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai
... Read morer in 10 minutes.
I pulled the fridge away from the wall.
I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.
I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.
I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.
Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.
I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.
I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.
My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
