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January 24, 2023
When we turn on the range to pre-heat or cook, the lower burner turns on but it will burn for a few seconds, go out for 1-3 seconds, then turn back on making popping noise (not metallic noise, but gas igniting) repeatedly. Gotten worse over time, used to do it more intermittently
For model number MGRH752BDW
Hello Scott, thank you for reaching out. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix the issue: Temperature Sensor, part number FIX2003225, Oven Igniter, part number FIX2085070, Pressure Regulator, part number FIX11744135, and Spark Module, part number FIX2086288. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order, anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope that helps.
Hello I when I program to bake something at certain temperature and time, the oven does not turn off by itself. What do I need to replace or fix? Please let me know. Thank you
For model number MGRH752BDW
Hi Dorys, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the following parts: oven sensor kit, part number PS2003225, and gas pressure regulator, part number PS11744135. If checking these does not fix the issue, then you may need to replace the control board, part number PS2357660. We hope this sorts out your problem!
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on. If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.