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MGRH752BDW Maytag Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$19.54
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$55.29
In Stock
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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(52)
Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
Top Burner Igniter – Part Number: 74004053
$29.47
In Stock
Top Burner Igniter
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(22)
Part #74004053
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, element does not heat, or gas igniter glows but does not light, replacing the igniter can solve these issues. For this installation, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and needle nose pliers. First place the grate on top of the burner, then lift the burner and disconnect the wires. Next remove the two Phillips screws from the bottom of burner, pull igniter out of the burner and wiggle in the new one. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for more instructions.
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon) – Part Number: W11665456
$23.60
In Stock
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
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Part #W11665456
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out as required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode – Part Number: WP3412D024-26
$59.47
In Stock
Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode
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Part #WP3412D024-26
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode igniter and has a 7-inch outer diameter. This manufacturer-approved surface burner is for gas ranges. The surface burner supplies the heat to a cooking area on the cooktop. You may need to replace your burner cap if the gas igniter glows but will ignite the flame, the range will not start, or if you can smell gas. Because a faulty burner cap could lead to a house fire, it is recommended that you replace this part as soon as you realize it is faulty. Remember to unplug the range, turn off the gas, and let the unit cool down before starting this installation. Note: this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket, and is sold individually.
Short Oven Sensor Kit – Part Number: 12001655
$35.80
In Stock
Short Oven Sensor Kit
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Part #12001655
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need replacing. This oven sensor is referred to as the short sensor and is 3 inches long. It should not be confused with the 6-inch-long sensor. The oven sensor is located on the back wall of the interior of the oven. Before starting this repair, be sure to disconnect the power source from the oven. If you are repairing a gas range, make sure to disconnect the gas source as well.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
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(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Range Screw w/Washer – Part Number: WP74006515
$7.47
In Stock
Range Screw w/Washer
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Part #WP74006515
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven door handle to the door. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Screw - 10-16 x 1 – Part Number: WP3387230
$7.47
In Stock
Screw - 10-16 x 1
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Part #WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
Range Door Gasket – Part Number: WPW10162384
$77.75
In Stock
Range Door Gasket
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(22)
Part #WPW10162384
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repairs to your oven you should make sure to wear work gloves to protect your hands, and give your oven time to cool. The only tool you will need to make this repair is a pair of needle nose pliers. This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips; if any retaining clips from your old gasket are left in the oven make sure to remove them before installing your new gasket.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$49.50
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
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Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperatures and makes cleanup simple. With approximate dimensions of 16 3/4 inches long, 12 3/4 inches wide, and 1 3/4 inches high, it offers a convenient size for everyday broiling and roasting.

Manuals & Care Guides for MGRH752BDW

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Questions And Answers for MGRH752BDW

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Dorys - For model number MGRH752BDW
March 29, 2023
Hello I when I program to bake something at certain temperature and time, the oven does not turn off by itself. What do I need to replace or fix? Please let me know. Thank you
Chris Boyle Profile
Hi Dorys, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the following parts: oven sensor kit, part number PS2003225, and gas pressure regulator, part number PS11744135. If checking these does not fix the issue, then you may need to replace the control board, part number PS2357660. We hope this sorts out your problem!
$35.80
In Stock
Short Oven Sensor Kit
$233.08
In Stock
Electronic Control with Overlay - Black
$159.24
In Stock
Gas Pressure Regulator
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Common Symptoms of the MGRH752BDW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
172 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • george from birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
168 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Brookfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
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