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MGR5750ADW
MGR5750ADW Maytag Range - Overview
Sections of the MGR5750ADW
[Viewing 7 of 7]Manuals & Care Guides for MGR5750ADW
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$7.51
In Stock

Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
PartSelect #: PS1573892
Manufacturer #: 12400035
The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both ...
$56.38
In Stock

Top Burner Igniter
PartSelect #: PS2082000
Manufacturer #: 74004053
This is a surface burner igniter, also known as a top burner ignitor and stove top spark electrode. It is used to generate the spark that lights the surface burner. If your stove will not start, eleme...
$33.45
In Stock

Leveling Leg
PartSelect #: PS11744009
Manufacturer #: WP74002557
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work...
$10.83
In Stock

Sealed Burner Cap with Electrode
PartSelect #: PS11741733
Manufacturer #: WP3412D024-26
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode igniter and has a 7-inch outer diameter. This manufacturer-approved surface burner is for gas ranges. The surface burner supplies the heat to ...
$69.79
In Stock

Short Oven Sensor Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003225
Manufacturer #: 12001655
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need repl...
$45.20
In Stock

Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
In Stock

Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11744745
Manufacturer #: WP7801P173-60
This is a replacement oven rack and it is designed for use with ranges and ovens. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. The rack provides a level and stable surface for cookware inside of your appli...
$83.00
In Stock

Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS11749287
Manufacturer #: WPW10162384
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repai...
$79.91
In Stock

Screw
PartSelect #: PS11738704
Manufacturer #: WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
$7.76
In Stock
Questions And Answers for MGR5750ADW
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Common Symptoms of the MGR5750ADW
[Viewing 10 of 10]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Element will not heat
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Gas smell
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would not work but the Broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
Parts Used:
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James from Ferndale, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Parts Used:
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george from birmingham, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
If the gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
Parts Used:
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Matthew from Brookfield, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
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