This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-o...Read moreut bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no heat or very little, or is not heating evenly. You may also notice a smell of gas. The ignitor may still be glowing, but could still have gone bad.
This is a leveling leg for your oven, range, or stove. The leveling legs on your oven allow your appliance to sit perfectly flat. The new one may be longer in length than your original, but will work the same. Install the new leveling leg, and test if you have it adjusted properly by putting the appliance on four legs. Adjust in or out a...Read mores required if your oven is rocking. It is recommended to check the other three leveling legs on your appliance in case they are also damaged or worn. The leveling leg measures 1.859", is all black in color, and is made entirely out of plastic. This leg may be shorter than the original but is the factory replacement. Longer leg is not available.
This burner cap assembly is sold with the spark electrode igniter and has a 7-inch outer diameter. This manufacturer-approved surface burner is for gas ranges. The surface burner supplies the heat to a cooking area on the cooktop. You may need to replace your burner cap if the gas igniter glows but will ignite the flame, the range will no...Read moret start, or if you can smell gas. Because a faulty burner cap could lead to a house fire, it is recommended that you replace this part as soon as you realize it is faulty. Remember to unplug the range, turn off the gas, and let the unit cool down before starting this installation.
Note: this part has been redesigned and no longer requires a gasket, and is sold individually.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. The kit includes the mounting hardware and bracket plastic tubing fittings. The retaining nut must be cut off the pla...Read morestic water line and gently pushed into the new valve. To remove, press down on the ring that the tube slides into. Refer to the installation instructions for further guidance. Please note: the manufacturer has redesigned this part and it can appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection.
This door seal is used for ranges and ovens. The seal prevents hot air escaping from the oven to maintain a certain temperature when baking. The clips sticking out of the seal help secure it to the range doors for the most effective performance. This seal is black in color and is made of rubber. If your oven is not heating evenly, has lit...Read moretle to no heat when baking, or is too hot, replacing the seal can solve the problem. The tools needed for this repair are needle nose pliers. Make sure the oven is cool before starting this installation project. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
This grate is used for gas range/cooktop. Grate is sold individually. This is the grate that sits over the burner for your pots and pans to rest on while cooking.
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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from Berwick, ME
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My
... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
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A burner wouldn't spark strongly enough to light the gas.
168 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Matthew from Brookfield, MA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Pliers
Replacement of these burners is very easy. You just twist the burner counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull it out. (You may need a big wrench if the range is very old.) Once out, just pull the two wires off and push them onto the new burner. Crimp them on with pliers if they're loose -- mine were. Twist the burner back on. If the
... Read more gasket under the burner has disintegrated, don't worry about it. They don't offer replacements for them because they're not necessary as a safety feature. They were designed to keep overspills from running under the cooktop, but the ridge around the hole is likely higher than you'd ever need.
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no water getting to ice maker
80 of 95 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Kevin from Boston, MA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.
I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.
I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai
... Read morer in 10 minutes.
I pulled the fridge away from the wall.
I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.
I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.
I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.
Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.
I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.
I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.
My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.