LSQ9549LW0 Whirlpool Washer - Overview
Sections of the LSQ9549LW0
[Viewing 10 of 10]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Agitator Directional Cogs
PartSelect #: PS388034
Manufacturer #: 80040
This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your wa...
$6.40
In Stock
Direct Drive Motor Coupling
PartSelect #: PS1485646
Manufacturer #: 285753A
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
$21.45
In Stock
Washer Direct Drive Water Pump
PartSelect #: PS11741239
Manufacturer #: WP3363394
The direct drive drain pump (Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump, Drain Pump, Washer Drain Pump, Water Pump) removes water from the washer during the drain cycle without the use of a belt. The pump is ...
$43.18
In Stock
Suspension Spring
PartSelect #: PS11743345
Manufacturer #: WP63907
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$9.62
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve with Mounting Bracket
PartSelect #: PS334646
Manufacturer #: 285805
The water inlet valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm, or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. This part could have either a blue or green-colored valve body. There...
$32.63
In Stock
Washer Clutch Assembly
PartSelect #: PS334641
Manufacturer #: 285785
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining ...
$38.96
In Stock
Agitator Cam Kit
PartSelect #: PS334648
Manufacturer #: 285809
This kit included the cam, 4 dogs and bearing.
$15.00
In Stock
Agitator Bolt
PartSelect #: PS11741866
Manufacturer #: WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$6.40
In Stock
Washer Tub Spring
PartSelect #: PS11751118
Manufacturer #: WPW10250667
This tub spring is also known as suspension spring, balance spring, or counterweight spring. It is sold individually. The function of the part is to counterbalance the weight of the motor on the front...
$6.40
In Stock
Washer Inner Cap Seal
PartSelect #: PS11748108
Manufacturer #: WPW10072840
This is an inner cap seal, but may also be known as an O-ring, and it is a part for your washing machine. Some symptoms replacing this part will fix include: leaking from your appliance, uncontrollabl...
$9.62
In Stock
Washer Agitator Cap Barrier w/Seal
PartSelect #: PS11748113
Manufacturer #: WPW10074580
The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
$18.22
In Stock
Agitator Kit
PartSelect #: PS334557
Manufacturer #: 285565
This agitator kit does NOT include the fabric softener dispenser (part 8575076A). That must be ordered separately.
$157.43
In Stock
Questions And Answers for LSQ9549LW0
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Jessie
May 2, 2024
My top loader washer agitate, and drain ok but doesn't spin after finish washing and rince cycle
For model number LSQ9549LW0
Hello Jessie, thank you for contacting us. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the clutch, part number PS334641, to fix the issue. It spins the basket during the spin cycle. We hope this helps.
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Paul
January 28, 2020
I start the washer, it fills with water and then it stops. No agitating or spinning and water does not pump out. Please help. TY
For model number LSQ9549LW0
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your question. If the washer is agitating or spinning, the lid switch may be malfunctioning and you will need to test it with a multi-meter to see if it has continuity. Begin by unplugging your washing machine, and then remove the top panel or cabinet. Locate the switch and verify that it is being activated when the lid is closed. If it is, remove the switch in order to test it.
Set your multi-meter to the Rx1 setting, touch the probes to the terminals, and press and hold the switch button down. The multi-meter should show a reading zero or nearly zero. If your test produces different results, you will need a replacement lid switch. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Karla
January 13, 2025
My washing machine has a big jerk and loud noise at the end of the spin cycle
can you help me?
For model number LSQ9549LW0
Hello Karla, thank you for getting in touch. A big jerk and a loud noise at the end of the spin cycle can be caused by several issues. Here are some common causes and potential solutions:
1. Unbalanced Load: If the load inside the washing machine is unbalanced, it can cause the machine to shake and make noise. Try redistributing the clothes evenly in the drum.
2. Leveling: Ensure that the washing machine is level on the floor. Use a level to check and adjust the machine's feet if necessary.
3. Loose Parts: Check for any loose parts or screws inside the machine that might be causing the noise.
If the problem persists even after checking these steps, then we would recommend checking the basket drive assembly, part number PS11723156, to solve the problem. It spins to rotate the basket during the spin cycle. We hope this helps.
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Jamie
January 30, 2025
Once in a while lately, I go to my washer, expecting it to be finished, and I find it full of water. The control has advanced to “Off”, so it THINKS it’s finished, but it never drained the water. If I advance the control to a spot to drain and spin, it will do it, and then I can take my clothes out and dry them. The next several times I run it, it will work perfectly fine, but then it will happen again. These episodes are getting closer together, I think, so maybe something is failing, but I don’t know how I can diagnose it if it doesn’t always happen. Any advice?
For model number LSQ9549LW0
Hi Jamie, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you have provided, we would suggest checking the drain pump first. If it is fine, the issue could be with the washer timer, part number PS11742046. It controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
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Common Symptoms of the LSQ9549LW0
[Viewing 19 of 19]Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spins slowly
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Will not drain
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Spinning Issues
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No hot or cold water
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Shaking and Moving
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Burning smell
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Will Not Start
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Marks left on clothes
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Water Filling Issues
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Leaks water
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Draining Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Lid or door won’t close
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No movement from Basket & agitator
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum ... Read more p.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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Parts Used:
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Jeff from Wayne, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1121 of 1223 people
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washer wouldn't agitate
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a ... Read more gitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a ... Read more gitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
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Parts Used:
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mike from Kent, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
952 of 1053 people
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Water pump leaking when machine used.
The hardest part of this job was pulling the machine away from the wall so the hoses could be disconnected and the machine flipped onto it's back. Putting the machine on it's back does two things. It drains the water left in the bottom of the tub so it won't pour out onto the motor when the old pump is removed, and gives the necessary a
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ccess to the pump. Once the machine is on it's back you remove the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and disconnect the hoses. The pump is secured to the motor with a pair of spring steel retaining clips which are easily popped off by hand. Once the clips are removed, the pump is in your hand. Put the new pump in place, replace the retaining clips and hoses, and you're done. This has to have been the easiest repair I've ever done. I wish cleaning gutters was this easy.
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Parts Used:
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Tom from Granby, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
594 of 637 people
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