This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stretched out. This results in the belt losing its grip and no longer driving the pump. The pump belt is black and made of rubber. The pump belt ...Read moreis located between the motor and pump underneath the washer. Simply remove the belt and hook the new one around the pulley. You may need to loosen or tighten the belt to ensure it is set in place properly.
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and wil...Read morel need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit...Read more includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on th...Read moree appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
The leveling leg pad or foot pad fits over the leveling leg on your washing machine. The foot pad is designed to protect your floor and keep the washing machine level and in place. This foot pad is just over an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of rubber and is gray in color. This pad is intended for use with washers and some dryers. ...Read moreMany of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. To complete the repair, turn the old leg counter clockwise to remove it. Then, simply remove the old pad and replace it with the new one. Finally, re-attach the leg by turning clockwise. Ensure that the washer is level, and adjust the leg accordingly if it is not.
This washing machine lid hinge ball is well under an inch in diameter. These hinge balls are sold separately, though two are required per lid. This lid hinge ball is made of plastic and is used for Maytag brand washing machines.
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning...Read more effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
This lid switch check is used in washers to detect if the washer lid is open or closed. This prevents a cycle from spinning when the lid is still open and is also used to start your washer once a certain water level is reached. If your washer will not start, agitate, drain, or fill with water, replacing the switch can be a solution to the...Read more problem. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning this installation project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance.
This black lid switch assembly comes complete with a bracket, two switches, and a fuse. An open fuse might indicate that the lid switch is bad. The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened. It is a safety precaution just in case someone decides to stick their hand inside the washer while the tub is spinning.
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Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
600 of 658 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Charles from Whitman, MA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel. I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools
... Read moreand about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
529 of 559 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
douglas from bonita springs, FL
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa
... Read moreshers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
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Damper pads wore-out and had metal to metal contact which caused the washer to spin out of balance.
167 of 189 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Steven from Rockford, MN
A Bit Difficult
More than 2 hours
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections. 2: Removed front panel. 3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer. 4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads. 5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash.
... Read more This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust. 6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry. 7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation. 8: Replaced drive belt. 9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs. 10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer. 11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation. 12: Replaced the front panel.
Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.