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KSSS36FTX00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview

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Whirlpool EveryDrop3 Refrigerator Water Filter – Part Number: EDR3RXD1
$84.45
In Stock
Whirlpool EveryDrop3 Refrigerator Water Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(114)
Part #EDR3RXD1
This EveryDrop Filter3 is certified to reduce the most contaminants with Triple Filtration Technology. Now, you and your family can enjoy the enriching benefits of cleaner, freshly filtered ice & water. Not just in beverages, but for preparing meals, too. This advanced generation of ice and water refrigerator filters from EveryDrop Filters are certified to reduce more contaminants with Triple Filtration Technology. Filter 5 reduces 16 contaminants, so you can feel reassured that you and your family are getting the most out of your water. Remember to replace your refrigerator filter every 6 months to maximize contaminant reduction.
Water Filter Cap - Black – Part Number: WP2260518B
$35.80
In Stock
Water Filter Cap - Black
★★★★★
★★★★★
(74)
Part #WP2260518B
This black cap covers the water filter.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$30.53
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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★★★★★
(95)
Part #W11384469
If your refrigerator’s interior light is not working, the door switch may be the cause. It turns the light off when the door closes. This is an OEM part. Confirm compatibility using your refrigerator’s model number.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WPW10225581
$34.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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(30)
Part #WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$19.69
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
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★★★★★
(10)
Part #WPA3073101
This appliance light bulb illuminates the interior compartment so stored items are easier to see and reach. Its clear glass design allows light to spread through the surrounding area, while the incandescent filament produces light when powered. A burned-out filament or damaged bulb may leave the compartment dark. Replacing a failed bulb helps restore interior lighting. Disconnect appliance power and allow the old bulb to cool before removal, then gently screw the replacement into the socket without overtightening and reinstall the protective cover. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
$35.80
In Stock
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing
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(10)
Part #WP628356
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, or not making/dispensing ice. If you notice the fill cup has been damaged or cracked; replace the part straight away. This water fill cup is a genuine OEM part and will fit most refrigerators, but check the list of compatible brands to make sure yours is included before purchasing.
Screw – Part Number: WP488729
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: WP2169142
$28.42
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #WP2169142
A warm refrigerator or noisy evaporator fan can indicate a problem with the fan blade. This white, four-blade OEM part circulates cold air over the refrigerator’s evaporator coils. Confirm fit using your refrigerator’s model number.
Icemaker Motor Kit – Part Number: 8201515
$98.81
In Stock
Icemaker Motor Kit
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(12)
Part #8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
Refrigerator Ice Mold – Part Number: WPW10190929
$162.26
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Mold
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★★★★★
(14)
Part #WPW10190929
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake resistant which prevents the coating on the mold from flaking into the ice cubes when the ice mold begins to wear. The ice mold forms the ice cubes and the heater allows the ice cubes to fall from the ice mold to drop them into the ice bucket. You will need to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator to access the mold and heater assembly. This is a genuine replacement part.
Refrigerator Single Shelf Stud – Part Number: WP2196483
$10.70
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Shelf Stud
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP2196483
This part screws into the side of the wall in your fresh food compartment and supports a shelf.
Cycling thermostat – Part Number: WP627985
$60.51
In Stock
Cycling thermostat
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WP627985
The ice maker thermostat, also known as the cycling thermostat, controls and regulates the ice maker ejection cycle by monitoring the temperature inside the freezer to determine when to release the ice into the bin and start the ice making cycle again. If your ice maker is making unusual noises, or if the ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, there could be an issue with the thermostat. Before you begin this repair, make sure the power is disconnected from your refrigerator, and that any food that may spoil is safely stored. This is an OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. This thermostat is sold individually, and comes with two attachment clips.

Manuals & Care Guides for KSSS36FTX00

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Common Symptoms of the KSSS36FTX00

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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there were directions
754 of 1282 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kate from Jacksonville, FL
  • Very Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
We didn't know where the product went and it was very difficult to install.
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six months the light turns red. time to replace filter
310 of 392 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leroy from Perkiomenville, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
First I shut the water off to the refrigerator.then i pushed the big button in the middle of the grille below the refrigerator door. pulled out the old filter, took the front cap off the old filter put it on the new filter. took the two red caps off the new filter. pushed the filter in till it locked in place. all done! Turned the back on .
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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