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KSSS36FTX00
KSSS36FTX00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the KSSS36FTX00
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Manuals & Care Guides for KSSS36FTX00
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Owner's Manuals
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Whirlpool EveryDrop3 Refrigerator Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11722128
Manufacturer #: EDR3RXD1
This EveryDrop Filter3 is certified to reduce the most contaminants with Triple Filtration Technology. Now, you and your family can enjoy the enriching benefits of cleaner, freshly filtered ice & wate...
$83.89
In Stock
Water Filter Cap - Black
PartSelect #: PS11739970
Manufacturer #: WP2260518B
This black cap covers the water filter.
$23.81
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$38.48
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
PartSelect #: PS11747806
Manufacturer #: WPA3073101
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stove...
$17.11
In Stock
Water Fill Cup and Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11743318
Manufacturer #: WP628356
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, ...
$40.40
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742721
Manufacturer #: WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$7.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$37.20
In Stock
Ice Mold
PartSelect #: PS11749915
Manufacturer #: WPW10190929
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake re...
$165.75
On Order
Icemaker Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS733947
Manufacturer #: 8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$116.11
In Stock
Single Shelf Stud
PartSelect #: PS11739228
Manufacturer #: WP2196483
This part screws into the side of the wall in your fresh food compartment and supports a shelf.
$7.06
In Stock
Cycling thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11743313
Manufacturer #: WP627985
The ice maker thermostat, also known as the cycling thermostat, controls and regulates the ice maker ejection cycle by monitoring the temperature inside the freezer to determine when to release the ic...
$62.09
In Stock
Questions And Answers for KSSS36FTX00
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Common Symptoms of the KSSS36FTX00
[Viewing 18 of 18]Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
there were directions
We didn't know where the product went and it was very difficult to install.
Parts Used:
-
Kate from Jacksonville, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
753 of 1268 people
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six months the light turns red. time to replace filter
First I shut the water off to the refrigerator.then i pushed the big button in the middle of the grille below the refrigerator door. pulled out the old filter, took the front cap off the old filter put it on the new filter. took the two red caps off the new filter. pushed the filter in till it locked in place. all done! Turned the back on
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Parts Used:
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Leroy from Perkiomenville, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
306 of 384 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
-
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
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