Enjoy cleaner water and ice with this easy-to-install refrigerator filter. It uses Triple Filtration Technology to reduce 16 common contaminants, so your drinks and meals taste better. For best results, swap it out every six months to keep your water fresh and safe.
The “Icemaker Control Assembly” (Module & Motor Assembly, Ice Maker Control Module, Icemaker Module, Refrigerator Ice Maker Module) is what controls the actions of your ice maker. The control turns the timing cams and the ejector blades. It controls most of the basic parts and functions such as the heater, water inlet valve, the cube size...Read more, and cube ejection. If your ice maker control is broken it can no longer properly control the ice maker functions. It may not produce any ice, make small ice cubes, or have intermittent operation. This can occur due to normal wear and tear. The icemaker control assembly is attached to the ice maker mold, and is under the white cover. Test the icemaker control assembly by using a multimeter. If this reveals the assembly to be defective, you will need to replace this part. It is approximately 4.25 inches square, beige, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features one icemaker control assembly, including the control module and the motor.
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator doe...Read mores not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.
This refrigerator water filter cap is a durable black plastic component designed to secure the water filter in place within compatible refrigerator models. It functions as both a protective cover and a locking mechanism, ensuring the filter remains properly seated for optimal performance. The cap installs easily without tools—simply turn ...Read moreit clockwise to lock and counterclockwise to remove. A properly fitted cap helps maintain water filtration efficiency and prevents leaks or dislodgement during operation. This replacement part is compatible with select models and offers a reliable solution for maintaining your refrigerator’s water system.
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, or not making/dispensing ice. If you notice the fill cup has been damaged or cracked; replace the part straight away. This water fill cup is...Read more a genuine OEM part and will fit most refrigerators, but check the list of compatible brands to make sure yours is included before purchasing.
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate the cold air into the refrigerator and freezer sections. The fan blade is white in color and made from plastic. This is a genuine OEM part...Read more. Please be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before starting your repair.
This is an ice maker mold and heater assembly for a refrigerator ice maker. It is used with modular style icemakers and is located in the freezer section of the refrigerator. This ice mold is flake resistant which prevents the coating on the mold from flaking into the ice cubes when the ice mold begins to wear. The ice mold forms the ice ...Read morecubes and the heater allows the ice cubes to fall from the ice mold to drop them into the ice bucket. You will need to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator to access the mold and heater assembly. This is a genuine replacement part.
The ice maker thermostat, also known as the cycling thermostat, controls and regulates the ice maker ejection cycle by monitoring the temperature inside the freezer to determine when to release the ice into the bin and start the ice making cycle again. If your ice maker is making unusual noises, or if the ice maker is not making or dispen...Read moresing ice, there could be an issue with the thermostat. Before you begin this repair, make sure the power is disconnected from your refrigerator, and that any food that may spoil is safely stored. This is an OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. This thermostat is sold individually, and comes with two attachment clips.
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No ice
567 of 688 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Daniel from Suwanee, GA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed flap door in front of icemaker...removed 3 screws with bolt heads...removed one additional screw with bolt head and ice unit slid out. I removed motor unit (pops out no screws). Replaced and had ice within 3 hours.
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Change ice/water filter
307 of 403 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Nora from Bethesda, MD
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
It was really easy. Took off grill at bottom of refrigerator, turned existing filter to get it out and then inserted the new one.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Cathy from Winter Park, FL
A Bit Difficult
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.