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KHMC106WWH0 KitchenAid Microwave - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8206232A
$8.55
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(177)
Part #8206232A
This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and should be replaced. The bulb attaches directly to an appropriate light socket and has a small screw-in base. To access the exterior light bulb, you will need to remove the panel on the bottom of the microwave using a Phillips screwdriver. If your exterior light bulb has not been changed before, it is probably held in place with some silicone. You will need to cut away this silicone to remove the old bulb. If you cannot access the silicone with a utility knife, it can be removed using dental floss. Once the silicone is removed, simply unscrew the old bulb, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect the power to the microwave before you begin this repair. This light bulb measures about 1 1/8 inches. We do not recommend using a higher-wattage bulb for this appliance, and can only recommend this specific bulb. If fixing the bulb does not solve your microwave light issue, it's possibly a problem with the socket, which means the socket and/or board will need to be replaced. This can be a more dangerous repair, so consult your user manual or a technician before attempting.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$13.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WPA3073101
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stoves. Its purpose is to light up the appliance when the door is open. This is a genuine OEM part. You may need to replace the light bulb if the existing bulb is burnt out or broken. This light bulb is sold individually and is a common wear part, it is recommended to order a spare.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Door Interlock Switch Kit – Part Number: 4392027
$89.70
In Stock
Door Interlock Switch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #4392027
This part is a genuine manufacturer door interlock switch kit, also known as primary micro switch or microwave switch kit, for a microwave. The function of this part is to sense when the door of the microwave is open or closed. If the part is defective, the microwave will not start or will start when door is open. This kit contains two 15 Amp, 125/250 Volt switches with 3/16 inch terminals. Be sure to disconnect power to microwave before replacing part. Use extreme caution when replacing microwave parts, as high-voltage capacitors can retain an electrical charge when unplugged. NOTE: This kit includes 2 single pole, double throw (SPDT) micro switches. As per the manufacture for the secondary interlock switch order part # 56001100.
Microwave Screw – Part Number: WP4158079
$8.55
Special Order
Microwave Screw
Part #WP4158079
This screw is for microwaves. A qualified technician should install this part if it requires accessing internal components of the microwave or microwave door. High-voltage capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even when the microwave is unplugged, and door shielding components should be tested for leaks after all door repairs. This screw is sold individually.
Diode – Part Number: WP4313101
No Longer Available
Diode
Part #WP4313101
This part allows power to go one way but not the other.
Grease Filter – Part Number: 4174973
No Longer Available
Grease Filter
Part #4174973
SHIELD – Part Number: 4174932
No Longer Available
SHIELD
Part #4174932
Capacitor – Part Number: 59001160
No Longer Available
Capacitor
Part #59001160
FILTER – Part Number: 4357329
No Longer Available
FILTER
Part #4357329
CAPACTR-DM – Part Number: 4174872
No Longer Available
CAPACTR-DM
Part #4174872
SOCKET-LMP – Part Number: 4174901
No Longer Available
SOCKET-LMP
Part #4174901

Manuals & Care Guides for KHMC106WWH0

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Common Symptoms of the KHMC106WWH0

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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light bult needed to be replaced
222 of 329 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deborah from Millersville, MD
  • Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the li ght bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
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Bulb "burnt out"
98 of 165 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Pembroke, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 1 screw, removed "burnt out" bulb and replaced it with new bulb.
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Microwave worked intermittently depending on how door was closed
67 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Bainbridge Island, WA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and a lso took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!
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