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KEMS307GBT2 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Overview

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Range Inner Door Glass – Part Number: WP4449259
$100.80
In Stock
Range Inner Door Glass
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(93)
Part #WP4449259
This inner door glass is a heat resistant part that fits into a stove, oven, wall oven, cooktop, or range as the inner glass panel of the appliance door. The glass panel allows you to see the items being cooked or heated in the appliance. Handle with caution and be sure to use gloves, as the door is heavy and the glass is breakable. Do not replace the glass until the appliance is cool to the touch. This genuine manufacturer part is approximately 20 inches by 10 inches. The inner glass door is sold individually and contains the glass panel only.
Microwave Turntable Tray – Part Number: W11373838
$72.00
In Stock
Microwave Turntable Tray
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★★★★★
(84)
Part #W11373838
This genuine OEM microwave turntable tray is a circular plate made of glass and has a diameter of approximately 16 inches. It rotates food in your microwave oven, so that your food cooks evenly. It is found in the center of your microwave and can be removed from it for cleaning. If your turntable tray is broken, you will notice that it wobbles as it rotates, or it may not rotate at all. With a damaged turntable tray, your food will not cook evenly or thoroughly. The other components in your microwave may also wear out more quickly. To remove your current turntable tray, simply lift it off the spindle in the center of your microwave. This part is sold individually.
Range Rack – Part Number: WPW10179152
$80.27
In Stock
Range Rack
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(21)
Part #WPW10179152
This oven rack is chrome in color and is approximately 24.76 inches wide by 15.78 inches deep. If your old oven rack is damaged, you should consider replacing it. Many of our customers have determined this repair to be very easy. You will not require any tools to complete it. To replace the oven rack, simply pull the old rack out, and replace it with the new one. Make sure to put the new rack back in the oven with the beveled edge in first. To keep your oven racks clean, we recommend that you pull them out before using the self-cleaning function on your oven.
Oven Halogen Bulb – Part Number: WP4452164
$49.50
In Stock
Oven Halogen Bulb
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(13)
Part #WP4452164
This halogen light bulb is a type of lamp that uses a halogen gas mixture for better lighting quality and longevity. It is an authentic OEM replacement bulb designed for use in ovens and ranges. It is used to illuminate the oven cavity. Over time, the filament inside the bulb can wear out and break, causing the lamp to fail. A faulty socket connection can also cause the bulb to lose electrical contact and stop working. If your oven light is faulty, you will have difficulty seeing and monitoring the food throughout the cooking process. Locate the bulb housing inside the oven cavity and carefully remove the bulb from the socket. Place your new bulb into the socket and ensure the bulb housing is secure. Note that each light bulb is sold individually.
Range Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WPW10131825
$72.00
In Stock
Range Temperature Sensor
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(8)
Part #WPW10131825
The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty temperature sensor. A faulty temperature sensor can be a fire risk. If your sensor is not working properly, you should look to replace it straight away. A failed oven sensor is most often responsible for F3 or F4 error messages on electronically-controlled ovens. Make sure you disconnect the power to your range before you start your repair.
Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP9759243
$52.67
In Stock
Limit Thermostat
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(13)
Part #WP9759243
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off. This safety thermostat trips when the controls are not working properly, or if the range gets too hot. If your oven will not start or is not heating properly, there could be an issue with the limit thermostat, and you should look to replace the part. NOTE: Remember to disconnect the power from your range before you start this repair. This is an electrical appliance that can potentially hold a 220 volt charge.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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(7)
Part #72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$49.50
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
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(6)
Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set is designed to help reduce mess while cooking by allowing grease to drain away from food. Its durable porcelain-coated construction stands up to high temperatures and makes cleanup simple. With approximate dimensions of 16 3/4 inches long, 12 3/4 inches wide, and 1 3/4 inches high, it offers a convenient size for everyday broiling and roasting.
Range Door Hinge – Part Number: WP4455525
$57.38
In Stock
Range Door Hinge
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(5)
Part #WP4455525
This is a door hinge for the oven door on your range. It allows the door of your unit to open and close without much effort. This hinge will also allow the door to stay open at different angles and hold that position. This part is sold individually and it works for both the left and the right side of your unit. You may need to replace this part if you are noticing that your appliance will not hold the open or closed positions properly.
Microwave Halogen Bulb – Part Number: WPW10440740
$27.36
In Stock
Microwave Halogen Bulb
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(1)
Part #WPW10440740
This is a small light bulb.
Range Temperature Probe – Part Number: WP9755542
$76.17
In Stock
Range Temperature Probe
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(5)
Part #WP9755542
Also known as a meat probe.
Gasket Cavity (Black) – Part Number: W11675844
$45.29
In Stock
Gasket Cavity (Black)
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Part #W11675844
This part is the replacement door gasket for your oven. It is now made of black rubber and is sold individually. The door gasket runs along the circumference of the oven door and creates a seal that insulates the oven and keeps heat in. If your oven will not heat up properly, or if you notice that the door gasket has become loose or worn, it may need to be replaced. To replace the door gasket, you will need to remove the retaining bracket at the bottom of the oven door, then carefully pull the gasket away from the front of the oven cavity. Then, push the new gasket inside the groove on the outside of the oven cavity, securing it with the arrowhead fasteners that are built in to the oven cavity. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer.

Common Symptoms of the KEMS307GBT2

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Broke the glass panel inside the oven door -- dropped a baking dish on the glass!
237 of 301 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Wildwood, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!
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No heat after cleaning oven
109 of 124 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frederick from St. Louis, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your pow er cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.
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My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.
131 of 258 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lindsay from Nampa, ID
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the no ise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You
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