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KEHU309SSS06 KitchenAid Microwave Oven Combo - Overview

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Microwave Turntable Tray – Part Number: W11373838
$72.00
In Stock
Microwave Turntable Tray
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★★★★★
(84)
Part #W11373838
This genuine OEM microwave turntable tray is a circular plate made of glass and has a diameter of approximately 16 inches. It rotates food in your microwave oven, so that your food cooks evenly. It is found in the center of your microwave and can be removed from it for cleaning. If your turntable tray is broken, you will notice that it wobbles as it rotates, or it may not rotate at all. With a damaged turntable tray, your food will not cook evenly or thoroughly. The other components in your microwave may also wear out more quickly. To remove your current turntable tray, simply lift it off the spindle in the center of your microwave. This part is sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$21.45
In Stock
Screw
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★★★★★
(6)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$7.47
In Stock
Dryer Screw
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Range Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WPW10131825
$72.00
In Stock
Range Temperature Sensor
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★★★★★
(8)
Part #WPW10131825
The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty temperature sensor. A faulty temperature sensor can be a fire risk. If your sensor is not working properly, you should look to replace it straight away. A failed oven sensor is most often responsible for F3 or F4 error messages on electronically-controlled ovens. Make sure you disconnect the power to your range before you start your repair.
Element, Broil – Part Number: WP9760774
$133.21
In Stock
Element, Broil
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★★★★★
(31)
Part #WP9760774
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven. The broil element is at the top of the oven and supplies the heat to broiling. 14" x 15" with 1-3/8" inserts. This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Roper, Admiral, Maytag, Hardwick, Jenn-Air, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Amana, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Caloric.
Range Terminal Block – Part Number: WPW10245259
$27.36
In Stock
Range Terminal Block
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(20)
Part #WPW10245259
This part is for oven ranges, it connects individual wires and protects the device from electrical surges, voltages, and current. With this part, the house power is connected to the range wire harness. Some symptoms replacing the terminal block could be a solution for are little to no heat when baking, element will not heat and/or it will not start. This part will prevent loosening and will reduce damage caused by corrosion (by two different metals). Refer to the instructional diagram for further replacement guidance and exact placement. You must unplug the appliance before installing this part and wear gloves to protect your hands.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is an 18 ml, or.6 fluid ounces, bottle of touch-up paint. It also features a brush for easy application. This quick-drying, long-lasting paint is perfect for fixing any nicks, scratches, or chips on the exterior of your appliance. This paint is white in color, and provides a durable finish.
GRILL SUPPORT – Part Number: W11724411
$41.07
In Stock
GRILL SUPPORT
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(28)
Part #W11724411
This part is used to hold up the heating element.
Range Temperature Probe – Part Number: WP9755542
$76.17
In Stock
Range Temperature Probe
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(5)
Part #WP9755542
Also known as a meat probe.
Screw – Part Number: WP3400832
$7.47
In Stock
Screw
Part #WP3400832
This screw is sold individually.
Door Switch - 250V – Part Number: W10211972
$47.40
In Stock
Door Switch - 250V
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #W10211972
This microwave door interlock switch is a critical safety component designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the door is open. It functions by detecting the door’s position—open or closed—and relaying this information to the microwave’s electronic control system. This ensures the unit only activates when the door is securely latched. Commonly used in microwave models experiencing issues such as failure to start or lack of heating, the switch plays a vital role in maintaining safe operation. Installation involves accessing the internal door latch mechanism and replacing the switch, which typically requires basic tools and careful handling to avoid damage to surrounding components. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the microwave’s door assembly.
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White – Part Number: 350930
$36.85
In Stock
Spray Paint - 12 oz. - White
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(3)
Part #350930
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to give a fresh new look to any handles or areas that have discoloring due to wear. Make sure to clean the area before you begin and wear a protective mask for safety. Give the can a good shake and spray a few inches away from the surface. Apply the paint until the area is fully covered as desired. Wait until the paint has dried before using the appliance.

Manuals & Care Guides for KEHU309SSS06

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Common Symptoms of the KEHU309SSS06

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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The ceramic bracket holding the conventional heating element at the top of the microwave oven broke for the second time
74 of 80 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peet from LAKE OSWEGO, OR
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Part No. PS11766760
Ignore the other repair comments on this page!!! The new replacement part can no longer be put into place as simply as the original bracket. This is a r3eplacement part with a modified design. Significant parts of the microwave (MW) must be dismantled in order to provide access for insertion of the new part. Th is is confirmed by notes at other web sites which provide this part. My approach also required cutting/drilling holes into sheet metal panels.

Kitchenaid/Whirlpool must have realized that the original part is inherently weak at the point at which it is supported at the ceiling of the MW. The replacement part is a good option from a strength standpoint, but a horrible one for ease of insertion. The original is a single ceramic piece. The replacement part includes a metal clip which holds the top stem of the ceramic bracket from the top ("roof") side of the MW. Getting at the top of the MW cavity is the difficult part. One needs to pull the entire built in oven from its location and remove at least the control panel from the front of the unit.

It took me 3-4 hours one day to see how to install the replacement part. I failed since I unexpectedly found that there are two sheet metal panels above the MW cavity which need to be removed in order to access the slot through which the bracket stem must be inserted. Maybe somebody else can think of a way to remove the metal panels, but I could not do it so I put the MW back together again.

After this failure I considered trying to repair the original part again (this was the second time it had broken). The first repair broke when the conventional heating element was used in the MW. This option might again be an interim solution so I went back to trying to install the new replacement part.

This time it took over 3 hours to remove the control panel, several wiring units, a transformer, and several side and top sheet metal panels. Each removal step was preceded with a photograph of the item to be removed so that everything could be put back as they were originally located. After all of this work it was determined that the MW would have to virtually be totally dismantled in order to access the bracket slot at the top of the MW cavity. There were simply too many items on top of the sheet metal panels to allow for bending the panels up to access the necessary slot in the oven ceiling.

Fortunately, my wife asked why I didn't consider drilling through the existing sheet metal panels at the top of the MW. Had she suggested that earlier in the dismantling, it would have saved hours of work.

After reassembling the side panels I drilled access holes through the two sheet metal panels over the top of the MW oven. Certainly one needs to be careful in measuring the location for such holes. The holes were to be rectangular, developed by drilling multiple holes around the perimeters of the final "holes." The two sheet metal panels are about 3/4" apart and the lower panel is about 3/4" above the MW oven cavity. After drilling out the holes (about 1/2" x 1") I successfully found the desired slot in the oven ceiling. Then the drill cuttings needed to be cleaned out with a vacuum cleaner - including inside the MW oven.

Inserting the replacement part was not trivial. One needs to hold the ceramic part in the oven, with the heating element in its proper place on the bracket, and then simultaneously place the metal clip onto the stem which has been inserted through the slot at the top of the MW oven. Long tweezers are handy for putting the clip into place. Then the fun begins. Somehow the metal clip must be pushed down onto the ceramic stem. This is a trial and error task with various long blunt tools used to try and push the clip down while not pushing it off to the side. Somehow I got the clip onto the stem and the part was finally in place.

Another hour (+) to re-assemble the MW and push the oven back into the cabinet and the job was finally done.

btw, the only reason it was relatively easy to pull the oven out of the cabinet (and push it back in) was that we have two office chairs at home (without arms) which come up to about the right height for having the oven sit on the chairs. Adding some 2x4's on the seats of the chairs brought it to exactly the right height. The wheels on the chairs also helped. Given the weight of the oven, removing and replacing the oven unit is not a trivial task and one needs to be careful at all times.

There were several observations I made about the new replacement part which also "froze me in my tracks" early in this project. That is why I kept thinking of ways in which to repair the original part more effectively than I had done previously. The problem is that the ceramic section of the replacement part is not the same size as the original. It holds the heating element higher against the ceiling of the microwave and the horizontal section which holds the heating element is shor
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Burned terminal block and filter board
95 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Decatur, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.
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The broiler element in my wall oven burned out
34 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Catonsville, MD
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
This was easy and I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble and expense of hiring an appliance repair person. I'm reasonably handy, but I really have no experience in this kind of repair. I'd like to mention that the part I ordered arrived in just two days and it was exactly the right part, so I was very pleased in that regard.

Aft er turning off the circuit to the wall oven and confirming that the power was off, I had to remove the oven from the wall in order to access the wires and connections in the back. Normally, this wouldn't have been necessary because usually the broiler element can be disconnected from the clasps that connect it to the electric source by simply unscrewing the defective element from the roof of the oven, pulling gently on the connection ends from inside the oven cavity in order to "pull out" an inch or two of the electric source wires and the metal clasps that accept the "male" connecting ends of the broiler element. Once the a bit of the wire and the metal connecting clasps are exposed and able to be held with pliers, the element can be disconnected from the connector clasps by simply pulling on the prongs of the element (hard).

But in my case, one of the metal connecting clasp for one of the wires had melted, presumably when the element burned out, and that clasp could only be accessed and replaced from the back of the oven. Also, I would imagine that the wires and clasps could "slip" back behind the unit when they're disconnected if that's not done carefully. However, removing the wall oven was pretty easy for me -- even as a one-person job. I just put a tall table in front of it and slid it out so that it rested on the table.

If you have to replace a metal connector clasp, they're inexpensive and available in the electrical departments of hardware/home stores.

In my case, there's a metal panel at the back of the oven that had to be unscrewed and removed so that I could access the areas where the electrical source wires connect through the back wall of the oven to the broiler element. This was just a matter of removing a few screws and then removing the metal panel.

Once the metal panel at the back of the oven was removed, I was able to replace the melted connection clasp by using a wire cutter/stripper and then pliers to secure the clasp on the end of the exposed wired by deforming the clamp with the pliers. Once that was done, I simply removed the screws that held the broiler element to the top of the oven cavity, disconnected the remaining three clasps that connect the element to the source wires (the fourth clasp was the one that had melted and that I'd replaced), removed the defective element, inserted the four "male" prongs of the broiler into the four clasps that connect them to the source wires, replaced the metal panel at the back of the oven, screwed the new element back into the top of the oven, slid the oven back into the wall cavity, turned the circuit back on, crossed my fingers, and everything worked like a charm.

I saved a money, but more importantly (for me) I saved a lot of time that I would have had to have spent waiting around for a repair person.
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