This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or ma...Read morey not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
This right-side end cap is designed to support the pantry drawer in your refrigerator, ensuring smooth operation and secure placement. Mounted directly to the interior wall of the appliance, it helps stabilize the drawer and maintain proper alignment. If the end cap becomes damaged or worn, replacement is recommended to restore full funct...Read moreionality. Installation should be done with the refrigerator unplugged, and manufacturer-provided instructions and diagrams should be followed for proper setup. Sold individually.
The pantry end cap is also known as a drawer support or a door shelf trim. This specific piece is sold individually and is meant for the left side of your refrigerator. It snaps into place on the door of your fridge, which allows it to hold items on the door shelf. To change the left side end cap on your refrigerator you will need a 1/4 i...Read morench nut driver. Users have ranked this installation as easy to do, with a less than thirty minute repair time.
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this p...Read moreart is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
The start relay boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed and the overload provides extra protection against excessive temperatures.
This pantry drawer front lid assembly is a genuine OEM replacement component designed to maintain optimal freshness and organization within select refrigerator models. Constructed from durable white plastic and featuring a clear window for visibility, it fits securely over the pantry drawer to regulate temperature and moisture levels. By ...Read moreforming a proper seal, it helps prevent spoilage and reduces air exposure, preserving the quality of stored food. Compatible with a wide range of refrigerators from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, and other affiliated brands, this part is engineered for long-lasting performance. Model verification is recommended prior to installation.
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the run capacitor may need replacing. This repair is fairly easy to complete, and the only tools you will require are a 1/4 inch nut driver...Read more, and a 1/4 inch socket with a small ratchet. The run capacitor is located in the back of the fridge, so you will need to make sure you have room to work on this repair. Make sure to unplug the fridge prior to beginning the repair.
This water filter bypass cap, also known as a water filter bypass plug, is an authentic OEM part that replaces the regular water filter cartridge in refrigerators. It allows water to flow freely through the dispensing system when the filter is not present. The bypass can fail if it becomes clogged, cracked, or falls out of alignment. A fa...Read moreulty filter bypass will result in leaking, poor ice production, and difficulties dispensing water. You can find the filter bypass inside the refrigerator, near the water filter housing. Disconnect the water supply lines and remove the faulty bypass. Insert the new bypass in its place and reconnect the water supply lines.
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Susan - For model number KBRS20etbl00
July 23, 2026
what is the total cubic feet storage capacity. I'm doing a kitchen refresh and i will purchase a counter depth if it has at least 20 cf. storage inside
Hi Susan, thank you for the question. The capacity of your model is 19.7 cubic feet. We hope this information helps!
3 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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IRVING - For model number KBFS20ETSS00
December 16, 2022
ITEMS IN THE BACK OF THE FRIDGE AND IN THE DRAWERS ARE FREEZING
Hello Irving, thank you for getting in touch. Our research on your model shows that you may need to replace the thermistor, part number PS2003772. It senses the temperature inside the refrigerator and sends information to the electronic control. If replacing it does not help, you may need to replace the damper control assembly, part number PS11750106. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
I cannot locate in the search bar a replacement control panel. Pls advise what is the part called if not a control panel
Hello Chuck, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS11750388 for the Electronic Circuit Board. We hope this helps!
My lower shelf shattered, the one above the two drawers. I need a replacement please
Hello Keith, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS11743702. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determin
... Read moreing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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The compressor would not run.
327 of 374 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Gilbert from Clinton, MO
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the co
... Read morempressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
A Bit Difficult
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on
... Read moree. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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