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JVM1870SK03 General Electric Microwave - Overview

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Microwave Fuse – Part Number: WB27X10928
$21.81
In Stock
Microwave Fuse
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(21)
Part #WB27X10928
This ceramic microwave fuse is just over an inch in length. It is white in the center, and metal on both ends. This is a 20-amp fuse, and is used to power your microwave. If the touch pad on the microwave becomes unresponsive, the microwave produces little to no heat, or the appliance simply does not turn on, it could mean that your fuse is at fault and needs to be replaced. Because this part contains an electrical charge, remember to disconnect power to the microwave unit before you begin this repair. NOTE: Before you start this repair, ensure that the microwave is unplugged, and the capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even after your microwave is unplugged.
Microwave Halogen Light Bulb – Part Number: WB36X10213
$25.75
In Stock
Microwave Halogen Light Bulb
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(42)
Part #WB36X10213
This halogen light bulb is an inch and a half long. Carrying 120 volts and 20 watts, it is used with some microwave ovens.
Drive Motor – Part Number: WB26X10038
$40.02
In Stock
Drive Motor
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Part #WB26X10038
This is a microwave turntable drive motor. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. It accepts a D-shaped drive shaft. The drive motor is located under the glass microwave turntable, and allows the turntable plate to rotate while the appliance is in use. Your drive motor might be broken if it is noisy or does not turn at all. Be sure to disconnect power to the microwave before starting this repair. Simply unscrew the bottom plate and the drive motor of your microwave, disconnect the wires, and install the replacement part. This drive shaft is 21 volts, is about 2 inches in diameter, and is made of metal.
Secondary Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X829
$47.40
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
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Part #WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly. NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
Glass Light Lens – Part Number: WB36X10071
$29.47
In Stock
Glass Light Lens
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Part #WB36X10071
The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is cracked or broken and will need to be replaced. You will need to remove the screw holding the cover in place. Unhook the cover from the bottom panel. Bend the tabs up that are securing the old lens in place. The textured side should be facing up. Place the new lens into place and secure back into place.
Glass Turntable Coupler – Part Number: WB06X10144
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Glass Turntable Coupler
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Part #WB06X10144
This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
Glass Cooking Tray – Part Number: WB49X10063
$80.82
In Stock
Glass Cooking Tray
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Part #WB49X10063
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
Grease Filter – Part Number: WB06X10596
$70.34
In Stock
Grease Filter
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(20)
Part #WB06X10596
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
Monitor Door Switch – Part Number: WB24X830
$48.45
In Stock
Monitor Door Switch
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Part #WB24X830
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Charcoal Filter – Part Number: WB02X10733
$63.63
In Stock
Charcoal Filter
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Part #WB02X10733
This charcoal filter is designed to capture airborne grease, smoke, and other particles generated during microwave cooking, helping to maintain clean air circulation within the kitchen. Engineered for optimal performance, it fits securely within the microwave’s designated filter compartment and is constructed from high-quality materials to ensure long-lasting filtration. Regular replacement of the filter supports efficient ventilation and odor control. Installation is simple and requires no tools—just slide the filter into place according to your appliance’s manual. Always confirm your microwave’s model number before installing to ensure proper fit and function.
Rack Holder – Part Number: WB06X10521
No Longer Available
Rack Holder
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(2)
Part #WB06X10521
Sold individually.
Diode – Part Number: WB27X10597
$59.47
In Stock
Diode
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(10)
Part #WB27X10597
This part allows power to go one way only.

Manuals & Care Guides for JVM1870SK03

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Questions And Answers for JVM1870SK03

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Frank - For model number JVM1870SK03
January 8, 2020
The control panel seem to be ok but when trying to heat something at makes a loud humming sound. ???
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Frank and thank you for writing. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty drive motor PS237772 and/or a faulty stirrer motor PS237771 , you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
$23.60
Special Order
Stirrer Motor
$40.02
In Stock
Drive Motor
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Jackie - For model number JVM1870SK03
March 2, 2020
Everything was working fine and then i’ll put something into hate it and now nothing heats
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello and thank you for writing. The most likely cause for this is a faulty Diode PS239740 or the Magnetron PS1019593. If you have a multimeter you can test them. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1-ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance or resistance in both directions indicates a faulty diode. You will have to make sure that the appliance is unplugged before starting your repair. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor in your appliance may still retain a charge even after it has been unplugged. We hope this information helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
$59.47
In Stock
Diode
$186.43
Special Order
Magnetron
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Common Symptoms of the JVM1870SK03

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Microwave completely stopped working
968 of 1266 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kim from Cliffside Park, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the mic rowave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
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light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
320 of 387 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marla from Arlington, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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The turntable motor went out and was making a horrible sound when I started the microwave
159 of 225 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kim from Centerville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I unplugged the microwave. :) Then, I removed the 6 screws found underneath the microwave, which allowed the bottom piece to hang down so I could see the turntable motor. I took the two screws out holding the motor in place and pulled the electric connectors off the motor terminals. Then I got the new part from PartSelect.com, repla ced the electrical commectors, fit the motor back into the slot it came from (cause the pin has to be seated up in the hole) and replaced the 2 screws holding in the motor. Then I put the bottom metal piece back up and put the 6 screws back in. It was really easy - and I'm a chick! ;)
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