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JVM1850DMBB01
JVM1850DMBB01 General Electric Microwave - Overview
Sections of the JVM1850DMBB01
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Manuals & Care Guides for JVM1850DMBB01
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Halogen Light Bulb - 120V 20W
PartSelect #: PS2351821
Manufacturer #: WB25X10019
This light bulb is located on the inside of your microwave. The bulb is behind the top grill. It will need to be replaced when it has burnt out and no longer works. Unplug the unit before beginning th...
$22.15
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
PartSelect #: PS247209
Manufacturer #: WB36X10003
This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb that is manufactured to fit microwaves with small-base light bulb sockets. The light bulb illuminates the inside of the microwave whil...
$22.00
In Stock
Light Socket - 250V 75W
PartSelect #: PS230544
Manufacturer #: WB08X10016
This light bulb socket that is used in microwaves. The socket is meant to fit small-base light bulbs. * Please note: The light bulb is not included with this part and is sold separately. If the follow...
$23.29
In Stock
Drive Motor
PartSelect #: PS237772
Manufacturer #: WB26X10038
This is a microwave turntable drive motor. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. It accepts a D-shaped drive shaft. The drive motor is located under the glass microwave turntable, and allows the tur...
$72.87
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
$45.34
In Stock
Glass Light Lens
PartSelect #: PS247275
Manufacturer #: WB36X10071
The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is ...
$17.46
In Stock
Glass Turntable Coupler
PartSelect #: PS227859
Manufacturer #: WB06X10144
This part accepts a D-shaped motor shaft.
No Longer Available
Glass Cooking Tray
PartSelect #: PS250009
Manufacturer #: WB49X10063
This tray rotates in your microwave ensuring more even temperatures and is approx.14-1/2 inches in diameter.
$95.90
In Stock
Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS952418
Manufacturer #: WB06X10596
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
$63.98
In Stock
Monitor Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS237422
Manufacturer #: WB24X830
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Rem...
$37.02
In Stock
Charcoal Filter
PartSelect #: PS224009
Manufacturer #: WB02X10733
NOTE: The charcoal filter cannot be cleaned. It must be replaced. This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking.
$62.50
In Stock
Flat Cab Mounting Bolt
PartSelect #: PS651196
Manufacturer #: WB01X10180
This part is the replacement flat cab mounting bolt for your microwave. The bolt is approximately 4 inches long. It is designed to hold the microwave in place in your cabinet. The main reason to repla...
$14.29
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JVM1850DMBB01
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Common Symptoms of the JVM1850DMBB01
[Viewing 7 of 7]Tray won’t turn
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Won’t turn on
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Doesn’t shut off
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No heat
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Door not closing properly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
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this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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Parts Used:
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Marla from Arlington, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Light bulb out, tried to remove, lamp socket broke
Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged t
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he wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.
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Parts Used:
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Gene from Urbana, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Lens cracked and bulbs burned out
First I removed the single screw holding the lens assembly in place. Then I lowered the assembly and tilted it until it came out. To remove the existing cracked glass lens there were four tabs bent down on it. By hand I lifted each tab just enough to remove the broken lens. I then replaced the broken lens with the new one and re-bent
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the tabs down by hand to secure them to the new lens.
The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.
You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.
Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.
Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.
The lens assembly, now removed, revealed the cavity that contained the two halogen bulbs. Since they were both burned out for days, they weren't hot so I could pull each one out by hand. The bulbs are secured by two straight heavy gauge wire leads and provided a little resistance but come out fairly easily. Make a mental note of the angle they came out so it will be easier to replace them with new ones.
You're not supposed to touch halogen bulbs with your bare hands, so I used the bubble wrap they came in as a means to hold the bulb while installing it.
Be sure to insert the bulbs at the same angle they came out so the pins do not get bent.
Once both bulbs are in place, replace the lens cover assembly by putting the end opposite where the screw hole goes in first on the right, then swing it up until flush and screw it down.
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Parts Used:
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Mark from GRAND BLANC, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
222 of 305 people
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