JVM1440SHC01 General Electric Microwave - Overview
Sections of the JVM1440SHC01
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Light Bulb - 40W 130V
PartSelect #: PS247209
Manufacturer #: WB36X10003
This light bulb is a 40 watt, 130-volt clear appliance light bulb that is manufactured to fit microwaves with small-base light bulb sockets. The light bulb illuminates the inside of the microwave whil...
$23.60
In Stock
Light Socket - 250V 75W
PartSelect #: PS230544
Manufacturer #: WB08X10016
This light bulb socket that is used in microwaves. The socket is meant to fit small-base light bulbs. * Please note: The light bulb is not included with this part and is sold separately. If the follow...
$37.91
In Stock
Drive Motor
PartSelect #: PS237772
Manufacturer #: WB26X10038
This is a microwave turntable drive motor. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. It accepts a D-shaped drive shaft. The drive motor is located under the glass microwave turntable, and allows the tur...
$40.02
In Stock
Secondary Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS237421
Manufacturer #: WB24X829
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
$47.40
In Stock
Glass Cooking Tray
PartSelect #: PS956214
Manufacturer #: WB49X10129
There are two different couplers (also known as a turntable shaft) that can be used for this tray - a male D-shaped shaft and a female D-shaped shaft. The couplers are sold separately.
$86.96
On Order
Aluminum Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS255242
Manufacturer #: WB6X486
This aluminum filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking. Sold individually.
$84.27
In Stock
Hood Damper Assembly
PartSelect #: PS651224
Manufacturer #: WB06X10436
Introducing the Genuine OEM GE Appliances Vent Damper - a high-quality part specially designed for optimal performance. Crafted with precision, this notable accessory is vital in controlling and direc...
$46.34
In Stock
Stirrer Motor
PartSelect #: PS237771
Manufacturer #: WB26X10037
This motor has a square-shaped shaft. This part operates the stirrer fan in the microwave.
$23.60
In Stock
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Common Symptoms of the JVM1440SHC01
[Viewing 6 of 6]Won’t turn on
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Tray won’t turn
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Doesn’t shut off
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No heat
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Noisy
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Touchpad does not respond
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
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this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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Parts Used:
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Marla from Arlington, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
320 of 386 people
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Light bulb out, tried to remove, lamp socket broke
Above the stove mounted microwave. I dropped the lens cover from under the bulb and tried to remove the bulb. The bulb separated from the base. I tried to remove the base with a pliers and the lamp socket broke. I ordered the parts and dropped the bottom cover of the unit down (5 screws). Removed 1 screww from the lamp socket, unplugged t
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he wires and took it out. Simply replaced socket, fastened bottom cover of microwave, installed new bulb and closed lens cover.
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Parts Used:
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Gene from Urbana, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
220 of 266 people
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The turntable motor went out and was making a horrible sound when I started the microwave
First I unplugged the microwave. :) Then, I removed the 6 screws found underneath the microwave, which allowed the bottom piece to hang down so I could see the turntable motor. I took the two screws out holding the motor in place and pulled the electric connectors off the motor terminals. Then I got the new part from PartSelect.com, repla
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ced the electrical commectors, fit the motor back into the slot it came from (cause the pin has to be seated up in the hole) and replaced the 2 screws holding in the motor. Then I put the bottom metal piece back up and put the 6 screws back in. It was really easy - and I'm a chick! ;)
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Parts Used:
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Kim from Centerville, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
159 of 225 people
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