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JV337X1WHC General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for JV337X1WHC

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Grease Filter – Part Number: WB2X8391
$51.61
On Order
Grease Filter
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WB2X8391
This metallic vent hood filter collects grease particles in the air from cooking.
Filter Clip – Part Number: WB2X8392
No Longer Available
Filter Clip
Part #WB2X8392
Light/Fan Switch - White – Part Number: WB23X5096
No Longer Available
Light/Fan Switch - White
Part #WB23X5096
Fan Blade – Part Number: WB02X10531
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Fan Blade
Part #WB02X10531
CLIP BLADE F – Part Number: WB2X8394
$11.77
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CLIP BLADE F
Part #WB2X8394
CLIP – Part Number: WB2X1862
No Longer Available
CLIP
Part #WB2X1862
GROUND PLATE – Part Number: WB2X646
No Longer Available
GROUND PLATE
Part #WB2X646
LIGHT SOCKET Assembly – Part Number: WB08X10003
$43.18
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LIGHT SOCKET Assembly
Part #WB08X10003
Screw – Part Number: WB1X5691
$8.55
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Screw
Part #WB1X5691
MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET – Part Number: WB13X5013
No Longer Available
MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET
Part #WB13X5013
WIRE COVER (RAW) GALV – Part Number: WB13X10001
$56.33
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WIRE COVER (RAW) GALV
Part #WB13X10001
WIRE CLIP – Part Number: WB02X10313
$8.55
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WIRE CLIP
Part #WB02X10313
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hood light would not work bad switch
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Henry from MOUNT LAUREL, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
I am not a professional, I am a Do-it-yourselfer like most of you guys. The repair went well. Here is how I did it:

I removed the metal covers over the wiring(3screws,1screw holds the bulb fixture) then I took a few pictures of the old switch as it looked installed so I could make sure I got the wir e color code in the right connection and the switch in properly aligned when I put the new switch in. There is only one “hot” wire going to the switch that is located on the bottom row in the middle, it should have a plastic cover over the connection to the switch.
I found the circuit breaker that fed my stove and Hood and turned it off. I tested the connections to make sure everything was dead.
I used a pair of needle nosed pliers and pulled off the wires on the back of the old switch. Make
Sure you grab the wire close to where the wire is crimped to the connector so you don’t pull the
wire out of its connector. I had one connector grab so tight that it pulled the metal tab right out of the old switch, then I had to get another pair of pliers and pull the tab out of the wire connector. When I got all the wires off the old switch I used my needle nosed pliers and broke off the 4 plastic legs holding the old switch in, then it comes right out. Before you put the new switch in make sure it is properly aligned. Make sure the printing on the switch is on the bottom and the single tab on the back is on the top before you push it in because it will lock when it is in. Now using my pictures I took I reconnected the wires to the new switch. Next I reinstalled the metal covering doing the largest piece first that one has the bulb fixture in it. I found it easier to connect the bulb fixture to the metal covering BEFORE I installed the covering onto the hood. I think this was the hardest part of the job because the screws were so small they are easy to drop and you must maintain an odd pose to install the coverings. Then I installed the smaller final piece of metal covering with one screw. There are also 2 tabs on the other side of the coverings that must fit into little slots before you put the screws in and tighten. Now I turned the breaker back on and my switch was back in action.
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