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JSP56CD2CC General Electric Range - Overview

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Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB23T10015
$40.51
In Stock
Oven Sensor
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(20)
Part #WB23T10015
The function of the oven sensor is to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice that the oven is too hot or too cold, or it is not heating evenly, you may need to replace the oven sensor. The oven sensor is typically located in the back of the oven so you will most likely need to pull your oven out to access it. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair. Be sure to disconnect the power source and shut off the gas valve before doing this repair.
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
$123.58
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
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(15)
Part #WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measures 10 inches. If there is no heat generated from your element, you may need to replace this part. You may also need to check your socket or infinite switch. It is located under the glass cooktop of your appliance. Be sure to unplug or cut the circuit breaker to your appliance before starting this repair. Before replacing this part, be sure your appliance is getting enough power. If it is receiving less than the required 220 volts of alternating current, the surface element will not work.
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass – Part Number: WB25T10002
$16.07
In Stock
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass
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(10)
Part #WB25T10002
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main reason to replace the oven bulb lens cover is if it is cracked, damaged, or missing. Be sure that the lens cover is cool to the touch before you begin this repair. To remove the lens cover simply turn it counterclockwise until you can remove it. Replace it with a new cover and turn it clockwise to lock it into place. This is an OEM part sourced from the manufacturer, and it is sold individually.
Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
$86.46
In Stock
Infinite Control Switch
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(9)
Part #WB24T10119
This part is sold individually and is for ranges. The control switch turns the surface element on and off and determines the temperature of the element. This will need to be changed if the control switch has failed and the cooktop is not turning on. It is found underneath the glass cooktop. Before beginning, make sure the circuit breaker is off. You will need to remove the cooktop from the counter. To do this you will need to go underneath and see what kind of brackets are holding it in place. The brackets will vary depending on the make and model and type of countertop is it laying on. These brackets will need to be removed.
Oven Light Housing – Part Number: WB08T10002
$39.95
In Stock
Oven Light Housing
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(12)
Part #WB08T10002
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufacturer instructions, if your bulb has burnt out you must buy the bulb for this part locally. This light housing is roughly five inches high, with an outside diameter of roughly four inches by four inches. To install this part, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a nut driver, and a pair of pliers.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$25.26
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Range Screw – Part Number: WB1K5062
$16.05
Special Order
Range Screw
Part #WB1K5062
Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
$16.05
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
$43.18
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
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Part #WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures 15-1/2 inches wide by 13 inches deep and the pan is about 17 inches wide by 13 inches deep. No tools are required to replace this item, simply pull out the lower drawer of your range, pull down the front of the drawer, slide the pan out and slide the new one into place. This is a genuine part sourced right from the manufacturer.
Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
$16.05
In Stock
Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
$85.36
In Stock
Dual Burner Control Switch
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(15)
Part #WB24T10063
This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of dual surface burners on ranges and cooktops. It manages both the inner and outer heating coils of dual-element burners by cycling power on and off, allowing precise temperature control across various settings. Compatible with a wide range of models from brands such as GE, Hotpoint, Kenmore, Monogram, and Café, this switch ensures consistent performance and safe operation. Common signs of a faulty switch include inconsistent heating, burners remaining at full heat regardless of the setting, or the control knob failing to respond. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the cooktop panel, and replacing the switch behind the control knob. This part replaces several older models and is engineered for long-term
6" Heating Element – Part Number: WB30X44826
$129.32
In Stock

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Large burner on dual element burned out
102 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Coil Burned Out
63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from St Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
57 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal l. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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