EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

JP656B4C2 General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for JP656B4C2

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Range Terminal Block – Part Number: WB17X5113
$37.91
In Stock
Range Terminal Block
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #WB17X5113
This kit includes one ceramic block with 6" wire leads, 2 wire nuts and 2 heat shrink with mounting bracket.
Drip Bowl - 6" – Part Number: WB31X5010
No Longer Available
Drip Bowl - 6"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WB31X5010
This six inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with looped terminal style surface mount burner element units.
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31X5011
$28.42
In Stock
SCREW – Part Number: WB1X536
$18.34
In Stock
SCREW
Part #WB1X536
Center Piece - 6 Inch Burner – Part Number: WB32X52
No Longer Available
Center Piece - 8 Inch Burner – Part Number: WB32X51
No Longer Available
Center Piece - 8 Inch Burner
Part #WB32X51
This part it is used to cover the center of the coil burner. Sold individually.
CLIP – Part Number: WB2X1172
$8.55
Special Order
CLIP
Part #WB2X1172
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB2X2162
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB2X2162
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB1X194D
$40.02
Special Order
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB1X194D
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB7X143
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB7X143
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB2X3276
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB2X3276
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: WB2X3274
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #WB2X3274

Common Symptoms of the JP656B4C2

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
I had 2 of the terminals where the burner coil plugs into completely fry
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • PATRICK from WASHINGTON, DC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down t o where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
pans were corroded
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dorothy from Gladwin, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
terminal block not working
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAMES from SAN JOSE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!