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JMV8208CB1
JMV8208CB1 Whirlpool - Overview
Sections of the JMV8208CB1
[Viewing 7 of 7]
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Charcoal Filter
PartSelect #: PS1871363
Manufacturer #: 8206230A
This Charcoal Filter traps grease from your oven's exhaust to help prevent it from entering the vent, which could cause damage over time. If the exhaust fan on your microwave is not working, you may n...
$11.53
In Stock
Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS3650910
Manufacturer #: W10208631A
This Grease Filter is constructed of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene and is used to trap grease and help eliminate odors from the exhaust air while cooking. It attaches onto the exhaust and is rated ...
$35.44
In Stock
Microwave Surface Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11722423
Manufacturer #: W10709921
This microwave surface light bulb (120v 25w) is an OEM replacement part used in microwaves and microwave/hood combos. It is one of the two halogen lightbulbs that are positioned on either end of the b...
$21.56
In Stock
Mounting Plate
PartSelect #: PS12074431
Manufacturer #: W11025649
This mounting plate is sourced directly from the original manufacturer for use with microwaves. It is a metal plate designed to support a microwave by attaching the microwave to the wall studs. If the...
$15.84
In Stock
Top Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11744892
Manufacturer #: WP8169704
This screw is sold individually.
$8.83
In Stock
Microwave Door Interlock Switch
PartSelect #: PS2361111
Manufacturer #: W10269458
This door interlock switch is for microwaves.
Door interlock switch prevents the microwave from starting when the door is open.
Because the microwave shielding and interlock switches must be pro...
$33.68
In Stock
Fuse
PartSelect #: PS1960938
Manufacturer #: W10138793
If your microwave is not turning on it could be due to your fuse needing to be replaced. This part protects the microwave by shutting it off if there is an electrical surge. This fuse is just over an ...
No Longer Available
DIODE
PartSelect #: PS12584264
Manufacturer #: W11256462
This diode, or high voltage diode, is used in microwaves. It is an electrical current control device that ensures power flows in one direction and not the other way. If your microwave produces no heat...
$29.52
In Stock
Drive Coupling
PartSelect #: PS3654579
Manufacturer #: W10337248
This glass tray drive coupling, also known as a tray support, is a genuine OEM replacement part. It can help solve the issue of your microwave tray not turning properly. This motor couple connects the...
$9.94
In Stock
Microwave Glass Turntable Tray
PartSelect #: PS12745298
Manufacturer #: W11402532
The turntable tray rotates in the centre of the microwave to help ensure the food cooks evenly.
$44.73
In Stock
DAMPER
PartSelect #: PS11728088
Manufacturer #: W10843943
This damper is an authentic OEM replacement assembly used in microwave/range hood combos. It includes the damper door and frame. It is designed to direct the flow of air through the vent duct, and the...
$73.10
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JMV8208CB1
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Common Symptoms of the JMV8208CB1
[Viewing 7 of 7]Won’t turn on
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No heat
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Door not closing properly
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Tray won’t turn
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Exhaust fan not working
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Noisy
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Doesn’t shut off
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Microwave made very loud noise while on. No heat.
Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart.
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Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.
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Parts Used:
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Sleiman from Miami, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Microwave turntable does not work
My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the
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entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.
I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.
The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.
I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.
The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.
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Parts Used:
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Todd from San Bernardino, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
31 of 39 people
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Humming sound, not heating.
I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!
Parts Used:
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Fausto from Miramar, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
34 of 48 people
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