JCSP39BW3BB General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the JCSP39BW3BB

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Bake Element – Part Number: WB44K5012
Bake Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
PartSelect #: PS249247
Manufacturer #: WB44K5012
At the floor of your electric oven is the bake element. This partially open-style element comes with push-on terminals. The bake element will likely provide most of the heat for baking. Therefore, if ...
$61.82
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Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719
Single Heating Element Support Clip
★★★★★
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS243701
Manufacturer #: WB2X9719
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this r...
$16.66
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Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$151.57
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Hinge with Roller - Right Side – Part Number: WB14X104
Hinge with Roller - Right Side
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(11)
PartSelect #: PS231612
Manufacturer #: WB14X104
This is a hinge with roller for the oven door on your range. The roller allows you to open and close the door with ease and control. If your door is not opening easily, you may need to replace this pa...
$48.67
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$156.75
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Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass – Part Number: WB25T10002
Oven Bulb Lens Cover - Glass
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect #: PS237483
Manufacturer #: WB25T10002
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main ...
$11.50
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Hinge with Roller - Left Side – Part Number: WB14X103
Hinge with Roller - Left Side
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS231611
Manufacturer #: WB14X103
This is known as a hinge with roller and it is for the oven door of your range. The hinge with roller allows you to easily open and close your oven door without much effort. Take note that your applia...
$57.22
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Oven Light Housing – Part Number: WB08T10002
Oven Light Housing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
PartSelect #: PS230438
Manufacturer #: WB08T10002
The light housing is also known as a lamp holder and is a part for the oven in your range. The function of this piece is to hold the bulb that will light up the inside of your oven. As per the manufac...
$28.91
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Broil Element - 240V – Part Number: WB44X232
Broil Element - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
PartSelect #: PS249432
Manufacturer #: WB44X232
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven and has push-on terminals.
$81.01
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Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
Broiler Pan - Large
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.05
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Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8" – Part Number: WB30T10045
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS243903
Manufacturer #: WB30T10045
This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops h...
$148.18
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Screw – Part Number: WB1M1
Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS234320
Manufacturer #: WB1M1
Sold Individually.
$7.77
  In Stock
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Questions And Answers for JCSP39BW3BB

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Common Symptoms of the JCSP39BW3BB

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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Bake element cracked on its own
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, flip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Timothy from Cordova, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
623 of 633 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who had already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Sandra from Hayward, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
387 of 391 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
221 of 259 people found this instruction helpful.
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