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JCS968KF1CC
JCS968KF1CC General Electric Range - Overview
Sections of the JCS968KF1CC
[Viewing 8 of 8]
Manuals & Care Guides for JCS968KF1CC
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REAR SUPPORT
PartSelect #: PS12709839
Manufacturer #: WB02X33180
This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
$13.05
In Stock
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236398
Manufacturer #: WB23T10015
The function of the oven sensor is to detect the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice that the oven is too hot or too cold, or it is not heating evenly, you may need to replace the oven s...
$36.68
In Stock
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$158.10
In Stock
Infinite Control Switch
PartSelect #: PS1016429
Manufacturer #: WB24T10119
This part is sold individually and is for ranges. The control switch turns the surface element on and off and determines the temperature of the element. This will need to be changed if the control swi...
$91.57
In Stock
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$23.43
In Stock
Meat Probe Thermistor
PartSelect #: PS1481046
Manufacturer #: WB20T10024
This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached. Also known as a Meat Probe.
$56.73
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$12.22
In Stock
RANGE HALOGEN BULB KIT
PartSelect #: PS12342510
Manufacturer #: WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
$49.10
In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.07
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JCS968KF1CC
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Common Symptoms of the JCS968KF1CC
[Viewing 7 of 7]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly ... Read more under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.
2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly ... Read more under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.
2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.
3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.
4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.
5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.
7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.
8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.
9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.
10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.
11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.
12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).
13. Turn on the breaker and test again.
Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
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Parts Used:
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Scot from Oakland, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wal
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l. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
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Parts Used:
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Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Coil Burned Out
Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak
Parts Used:
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Frank from St Augustine, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
60 of 91 people
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