This burner drip bowl, also referred to as a drip pan or burner pan, is a genuine OEM replacement part that is designed to fit ranges. The bowl is located beneath the burner where it catches food particles and other items that may fall during the cooking process. It prevents these substances from making contact with and potentially damagi...Read moreng the burner or cooktop surface. Each bowl has a diameter of 8 inches. It also comes with a chrome finish that gives the bowl a sleek and modern appearance, helps to protect the bowl from corrosion, and makes it easier to wipe off spills and drips.
The temperature sensor, also known as the oven temperature sensor assembly is usually found in the back of the oven. The function of the oven temperature sensor assembly is to measure the temperature inside your oven while it is on and send the temperature back up to the electronic control, which adjusts as necessary. If your oven is havi...Read moreng difficulty achieving warmer temperatures and/or keeping warmer temperatures up, you may want to test your temperature sensor. Before you make this repair remember to unplug your range from the power source, and turn off the gas shut off valve.
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 ...Read moreto 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficiently, you could have a damaged or missing drawer support. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually. To replace the support...Read more, simply remove the oven drawer, and unscrew the front support on the sides of the oven. Then, simply screw the new part in and replace the drawer to complete your repair.
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in fact, on. The lens is a little less than half an inch in diameter and is made of plastic. If the light behind the lens still works, you sho...Read moreuld be able to simply remove the front panel and pop the damaged lens out of position, then replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This part provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).
This part is a replacement screw for your oven. It is made of black metal and is sold individually. This screw is approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and about 1/2 inch in length. It is designed to connect the different parts of your oven door. This part is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Peter from stamford, CT
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
jonathan from willow springs, IL
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U
... Read morenscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees
54 of 95 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Gerald from Cape Canaveral, FL
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.