JB600WD1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered the part on Friday, got it on Saturday, very impressive. Be sure to unplug the range or disconnect the power at the breaker box before any repairs are started.

The lower (Bake) element is held in by 2 screws. Remove them and gently pull out the element to remove the power wires connected to the element. These wires are very short and there is not much room in which to work. After having removed the wire connectors one slipped from my fingers and went back in the small opening in the back of the oven where the element is inserted. It took some time to fish out the wire. Not wanting to slide out the range I used some surgical forcepts I happen to have grab the wire ( handy to clip wires or compontents in place for some delicate repairs). Its all blind and the opening is very small plus the insulation must be pushed back to gain access. Anyway I managed to grab the wire, attached both wires to the element, replaced the plate and screws holding the element in place, all finished. Worked great. Other ranges I have owned provided a socket to plug in the element, I guess the bottom line gets in the way of quality.. Being 60 years old the worst part of this job is the getting down on my knees to do the work and getting back up again.

Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.

Cut the Power! pull out stove remove the 4 screws in the back, disconnect the two wires from the element.Open oven door, remove racks and remove 2 screws holding the element in place. Replace element and the 2 retaining screws, replace racks.On the back of the oven connect the two wires and replace cover. Slide back in place and turn on the power. Done =)

repair took about 30minutes total tiem..first turn off power to stove..then open oven removed racks..used nut drive to loosen top two screw hold element..then remove screw hold temp sensor element...then removed two screws holding broiler element...then removed the top screw ...then pulled element out about 7 inches to expose wire connection..held on with spade lugs.. pulled wires off...element now free to remove ...placed spade lug on new element...put element in pace with top two screws..loosely...then did rear screw that held temp element and broiler element...then tighten all screws ..turned on power..did 15 sec test to make sure wired properly..then 5 minutes to operating temperature... job done...hardest part was crazwling in and out the stove...old bones..

Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!

1. Removed the oven door -- this is a little tricky -- you need to lift to small metal covers on the hinges, then pull the door up and out from the broil (half open position). Replace the door the same way. It is important to insert the hinges with the door in the "broil" position, and after verifying that the door is aligned and closes normally -- then lift hinge covers to lock in place.

2. After door is removed the glass assembly can be removed and replaced by unscrewing two long (2-3 inch long) screws at the top. And three hex head screws at the bottom of the door. Note -- there is no need to removed the six screws (3 either side) on th ebottom of the door -- because these only hold the hinges to the door. The other 5 screws that you do need to remove actually hold the two halves of the door together.

3. Replace glass assembly and reassemble.

It is not so hard but you need "star" screwdrivers for the long screws... (not philips -- but 6-pointed stars), and a socket wrench is useful for the bottom 3 hex head screws...

If I were to do again it would only take me 15 minutes.... but I messed up by removing the hinges unnecessarily so it took me an hour.

First, we turned off the electricity for the whole house, since we didn't want to pull the unit away from the wall and possibly damage our new floors. We then used a socket wrench to remove the 2 nuts holding in the broken element. After that, we pulled out the old element, and this is where the difficulty came into play. The wires for the element stayed inside the back of the oven, and nothing we did could make them come out. We tried for a long time to get the wires to come back out into the oven, but our fingers were not long enough, and nothing we inserted into the space helped the situation.

Since we had turned the electricity off and still were reluctant to move the oven ourselves, we actually decided to call in a repair person (cost: $90). What he did, though was really simple:

He pulled the oven out from the wall. Used a screwdriver to open the back panel of the oven and was able to pull out the wires. Then, he inserted the new element, hooked it up to the wires, and closed back up the back panel. Then, he moved the oven back into place.

The repair person did this in all of 5 minutes, so if my husband and I had thought about the back panel, we would have easily done it ourselves.

My husband had turned the oven on to cook something and didn't know that I have a plastic tray in there. Well, needless to say I needed to get some new oven racks. I tried to get them through the manufacturer (GE). They were 68$ each. I thought that was a bit steep, so I looked online. I decided to order through PartsSelect. Well...they can 2 days later (the week before Christmas!!)and were a PERFECT fit.
Between the price, shipping speed and quality I will
definitely buy from again and recommend this site to everyone I know!!!!

Oh yeah, I work for Sears too. we have access to all sorts of parts....this site is the BEST for prices and delivery speed!!!!

Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak

The old glass had shattered so I had to clean up the glass fragments from the door including the track where the replacement glass fits. Also, I removed the complete oven door from the stove so I could lay it on the table and work with it better. I had to purchase a star shaped bit in order to remove the two long screws located on the inside of the door. These screws hold the door glass assembly to the oven door. After those two screws were removed, I could get to the remaining interior screws which completely removed the door glass frame from the oven. Once the door glass frame was removed, I placed the new glass into the track and reassembled the frame onto the oven door. Then I reattached the oven door to the range. Oh, by the way, the door is removed from the range by flipping a latch (from front to back) on either side of the door. Then you can remove the door. To put the door back on the stove, just insert the pertruding pieces and flip the lever from back to front (reverse order from how it was removed). You may have to jiggle it a couple of times to get it back into the slot correctly.
I had to learn how to do this as I went along.

Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.

Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up
with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding

The repair went very easy. The replacement part was designed differently than the original part. It installed on the rear of the drawer with a screw as the original snapped into the side. This was a bit confusing when researching and looking up the part online.

Charles from Sharon MA 1/14/09 has a pretty good description of what needs to be done. My model must be a little different than Charles, so I'll just tell you about the differences.

The locks that hold the hinges in place on the oven had to be flipped DOWN not UP. They are small rectangular metal brackets with a little open "notch" on the top where you can stick a small screwdriver to pry them down.

I found that I DID have to remove the six small screws (three on each hinge) that hold the hinges in place as they also went through both the inner and outer door panels.

Note that the glass assembly has a vented frame. Note that there are vents on the TOP of the frame but not the bottom - i.e. heat rises. Take care not to put the glass assembly in upside down.

I started by lifting the front of the stove and slipping a towel under it so it would slide easier and not scratch the floor. The next step was to unplug the stove, after that, I removed the shelves. The next step was to remove the cover plate on the b ack to expose the connection. I removed the old element by pulling the to slide-on connections and the two mounting screws. At this point I took the time to clean the oven since the element was not in the way. To install the new element I did the opposite of th removal process.