The broil element is located at the top of the oven and gives off heat in order to bake evenly. If you notice that the element is not heating up or is not cooking evenly it could be because it is broken or burnt out. The depth of the screw-on terminals is 2-3/4 inches and they are 1-1/4 inches apart. Does not include mounting bracket. All...Read more you need for this simple repair is small screwdriver. To complete this repair, you will need to first turn the oven off (or shut off the house circuit breaker), remove the two screws that are holding the old element in place, remove the two wires from the old part, and then connect them to the new part and screw back into place.
This 6-inch surface element provides heat for boiling, frying, and simmering on an electric range. Its 3-wire, tilt-lock design runs on 240 volts and produces about 1,325 watts. Replace it if it does not heat, heats unevenly, or has burned or broken areas. Before ordering, inspect the control switch, wire ends, and mounting parts. Confirm...Read more the size, voltage, wattage, and fit with the full appliance model. Turn off the correct breaker and verify that power is off before service. Let the element cool and secure each wire before testing.
This tilt lock hinge mounted surface element kit includes an 8 inch element, three wire, 2450 watt surface element, and a terminal block with all three-wire units. These high rise elements do not come with an attached trim ring.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!View More
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Broiler Element Burned Out
17 of 19 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Richard from Vestal, NY
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Successful repair to Our GE range, manufactured prior to 1965 (when installed in house). Pulled range from wall, unplugged, removed burned-out broiler element. Previous check with GE to make cross reference of range part number to Part-select part number for this nearly 50-year-old range. Obtained new part and installed. Works. Range has
... Read moreself-cleaning oven, accidentally destroyed thermal switch attached to element mounting bracket, difficulty with frozen mounting nut. Self-cleaning still works; thermal switch locks out a solenoid which defeats door latch; prevents premature opening of oven door when oven too hot to open safely. Internet search did not find GE part but there are generic devices of the same type available; will consider installation later.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The lower bake element in the upper oven burnt out.
11 of 13 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
John D. from Thousand Oaks, CA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers
In order to determine what was wrong with the oven I used a voltage meter to determine if power was coming to the element in the first place. Be careful to set your meter at least 500 ACV, as the oven is operating at 240V. Remove the two screws that hold the element in place and carefully pull it out of the side of the oven. Turn on t
... Read morehe bake element in the upper oven and place your test leads to either side of the connection leads. If you get a reading of 240Volts plus or minus you will know for sure the element is bad. Turn off the oven, or even better turn off the circuit breaker to your stove. There are two leads to the element that are held in place by self taping screws. If you have the same luck I have they will be corroded together. Carefully use long nose pliers to hold steady while gently applying pressure. If necessary use liquid wrench. When separated put together in the reverse order as how you took it apart.
Read less
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Broiler element not working
9 of 11 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Shawn from Newburg, PA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Nutdriver
Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wi
... Read morere clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.