This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your washer to tumble your clothes during the washer cycle. Your agitator will rotate one way, and not the other. The agitator dogs are what preven...Read moret the agitator from rotating in both directions, while allowing it to rotate in one direction. Your agitator cogs may be malfunctioning if you can manually rotate the agitator in both directions. If broken they will need to be replaced. Cogs can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. The are attached to the agitator. This replacement part features 4 agitator directional cogs. There are 4 cogs per package that are made up of high-quality plastic. This part comes in white/beige.
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer beca...Read moreuse of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
This kit (Medium Cam Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Cam Repair Kit, Cam Agitator) is used to repair the agitator. These parts are located inside the agitator auger near the top. You will need to remove the softener dispenser first if your model is equipped with one. This part is driven by the output shaft of the transmission to mov...Read moree the clothes during a wash cycle. The agitator auger rotates one way but not the other, which forces the laundry down and out for a constant tumbling during the wash cycle. The agitator is subjected to a lot of force during the washer wash cycle. Constant and frequent use of the appliance can cause damage, especially during heavy loads. If you’re experiencing a noisy agitator, or an agitator that spins freely in both directions, then it may be in need of repairs. If your agitator is no longer agitating properly, your clothes will not tumble, and will not be washed properly. The agitator repair kit includes an agitator cam, 4 directional cogs, a bearing, thrust spacer, inner cap seal, and a washer. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in black/white.
The direct drive drain pump (Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump, Drain Pump, Washer Drain Pump, Water Pump) removes water from the washer during the drain cycle without the use of a belt. The pump is supposed to drain the water from the washer; if the water isn’t draining or if there is a leak, you may have a problem with your pump. You ...Read moremust replace this part if there is a blockage or clog. Although the symptoms may point to a malfunctioning drain pump, there could actually be a problem with one of the connecting hoses. This pump connected directly to the motor, and comes in white plastic. This replacement part features 1 direct drive water pump with 2 ports for water to pass through: a large one and a smaller one.
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could cause the load to be off-balance which can lead to excessive shaking, moving, noise, and leaks. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 nut driv...Read moreer, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power supply, fill hoses, and drain hose to give you safe and easy access (have a container nearby for water left in drain hose). This item is sold individually, which is important as you may need to repair multiple springs in your appliance, which carries three suspension springs. As an inexpensive part, we recommend purchasing several at a time, as they can be very useful to have on-hand.
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and mo...Read moreving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is having trouble starting, is not agitating, spinning, or is not draining properly, this could be because the lid switch has broken. You will ...Read moreneed a 5/16-inch nut driver for this repair. The package will contain one lid switch. You will need to access the back of the washer, and remove the two Phillips screws that hold the top back panel in place. Slide the panel forward to release. Use your nut driver to loosen the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Lift the lid of the washer to release the old lid switch.
This is a genuine OEM thrust spacer for your washer, and is also commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is about 2.5 inches in diameter, is made of plastic, and is white in color. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. The spacer is fitted between the agitator and the agitator auger to supp...Read moreort it as it moves. This part is sold individually. Although it is not included in this part, you should have some dual-action agitator grease for the repair as well.
This is an inner cap seal, but may also be known as an O-ring, and it is a part for your washing machine. Some symptoms replacing this part will fix include: leaking from your appliance, uncontrollable shaking and moving, loud noise, pumps but will not spin, or if your appliance will not agitate. This model is off-black in color and 3 inc...Read morehes in diameter. You will find this part inside the agitator in the middle of your washing machine. It is recommended to wipe down the barrier before putting the new seal on.
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Kristie - For model number ITW4300SQ0
February 5, 2020
It seems to lose power. Would start back after thumping it. Now does not come on at all
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty lid switch PS11745957 and/or a loose or a faulty capacitor PS11746660 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage or test with a multimeter, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
How do you remove washer top to check or replace lid switch?
Hello Tony, thank you for your question. There are two different versions of appliances that use that lid switch. The first set of instructions are as follows:
Remove the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire
If the unit does not have the two screws at the back of the control panel follow these instructions:
Before beginning any repair, please unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet or turn the circuit breaker off. First, pull the washer away from the wall to access the backside. Once removed from the wall you will need to loosen the Philips head screws holding the back panel in place. You will need to slide the top panel forward to release it from the mounting tabs. Rotate back the top panel which will expose the existing lid switch. Use a nut driver to remove the screw holding the ground wire in place. Lift up the top lid which will move an arm inside that connects to the switch by moving that arm it will allow you to remove the switch. Squeeze on the release tab to remove the switch and disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the lid switch. Reconnect the new switch to the wiring harness. Lift up the lid again and position the new switch and push it down so it clips into place. Lower the lid and connect the ground wire and screw it in place. With the switch installed, take the top panel and roll it back down into position and align the top panels mounting tabs then lock it into place. Use a Phillips head screw driver to tighten the remaining 2 screws into place. Reconnect the power cord or turn the circuit breaker back on and the washer should be ready to use.
I hope this helps.
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Timothy - For model number ITW4300SQ0
March 30, 2025
Why water draining back in washing machine?
Hi Timothy,
Thank you for your question. If water is draining back into the washer, the drain hose may be kinked or clogged, or the drain pump may be clogged or malfunctioning. You will need to inspect these parts to see which one is causing the issue. We hope this helps!
Why don't the water stop coming into the washer? The washer will wash but the water will not stop coming in.
Hi Craig, thank you for your inquiry. Check the pressure switch and pressure tube. The pressure switch senses how full the tub is through a small plastic air tube as water rises it pushes air up the tube which triggers the switch to cut power to the water inlet valve. If the pressure switch, part number PS3408163, has failed it won't send the signal to stop filling. If the air tube has a hole, a loose connection, or is clogged with soap scum, it won't build enough pressure to trigger the switch, causing the tub to keep filling indefinitely. Also, check the water inlet valve, part number PS11746765. If water continues entering the tub with power completely disconnected the valve is mechanically defective and needs to be replaced. Glad to be of help!
After spinning the tub is leaning toward the front of the washer. When it refills the water runs off the top rear of the tub and out the back side onto the floor. Do the suspension springs keep the drum level?
Hello Brenda, thank you for your question. The suspension springs, and the balance ring, Part #: PS11741965, keep the tub level. I hope this helps.
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No movement from Basket & agitator
1124 of 1228 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Jeff from Wayne, NJ
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum
... Read morep. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
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washer wouldn't agitate
955 of 1057 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
mike from Kent, WA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers, Socket set
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a
... Read moregitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
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Upper portion of agitator, no longer pushing clothing down.
802 of 842 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Matt from Pawtucket, RI
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Pliers, Socket set
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repai
... Read morer kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
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