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HTS22GCMARCC Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

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Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$30.53
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
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(69)
Part #WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X10068
$35.95
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
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★★★★★
(18)
Part #WR50X10068
This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, by turning off the defrost heater at the end of the defrost cycle. This part attaches to the tubing of the evaporator coil in the freezer. A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees. If this high limit thermostat is open at room temperature or colder, it is defective. This limit thermostat has an attached mounting clip and comes with pink and amber wire leads. The thermostat is 1 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, the 2 wire leads are 10 inches long.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$207.55
In Stock
Ice Maker
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(98)
Part #WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
$13.92
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
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(27)
Part #WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan grommet is located behind the evaporator fan cover in the back of the freezer. You will need to remove the evaporator fan cover to access the evaporator fan and complete this repair. Before you begin this repair, ensure the power to the refrigerator is disconnected. You will need a pair of needle nose pliers, a small flat blade screw driver and both a 1/4 and 5/16-inch nut driver to complete this repair.
Main Control Board Assembly – Part Number: WR55X10942C
$381.06
In Stock
Main Control Board Assembly
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Part #WR55X10942C
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerator, and measures 8 inches by 5 inches. It’s constructed of metal and plastic, and comes in green. This kit includes one main control board with built in defrost controls. If broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10185
$83.64
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor
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Part #WR60X10185
This evaporator fan motor circulates air to the fresh food compartments for efficient cooling. It powers the evaporator fan that draws air from the refrigerator and circulates it over the evaporator coils. Your fan motor has a long life cycle, but can burn out quickly if there is an obstruction preventing the fan from rotating. If the fan does not operate, the freezer will not cool properly. This will affect the performance of the compressor. This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer section of your refrigerator, behind the auger motor assembly. It is attached to the back wall. If you notice problems with your freezer then check to see if there is anything blocking a fan blade. If there is no obstruction, test the evaporator fan motor using a multimeter. Test the 2 wires that travel from the coil on the motor for resistance. If these tests indicate that the evaporator fan motor is at fault, it must be replaced. This part features 1 evaporator fan motor, which is metal and plastic, and comes in white/silver
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$16.05
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(2)
Part #WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
$16.05
In Stock
Lid Bumper
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(2)
Part #WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
Ice Bucket - White – Part Number: WR30X10154
$40.56
In Stock
Ice Bucket - White
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Part #WR30X10154
The ice bucket in your freezer collects the ice from the ice maker and stores it. If your old ice bucket is damaged you may want to replace it as it can leak. This product is made of white plastic and is approximately 13 inches in length and 9 inches wide at the widest point. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Many of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. To complete this repair, simply remove the damaged bucket, making sure to collect any broken pieces. Then, simply slide the new bucket in place.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X10072
$43.18
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
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(21)
Part #WR72X10072
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one side, or it will not stay in place at all. The drawer slide rail is for the right side of the drawer only, so be sure to check that you are replacing the correct drawer rail. This part is made of white plastic and is approximately 15 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Condenser Fan Motor - 12V – Part Number: WR60X10209
$78.26
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor - 12V
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(3)
Part #WR60X10209
This DC fan motor moves air across the condenser coils and compressor to help remove heat. A failed motor may cause poor cooling, a hot compressor, or humming and squealing sounds. Before replacing it, clean the coils and check the fan blade, wiring, and air path for dirt or damage. Confirm fit with the full appliance model, 4-pin plug, and 11.3- to 12-volt rating. Unplug the refrigerator before removing the rear panel. Keep hands away from the blade, protect the cooling lines, and reinstall the panel before testing the unit.

Common Symptoms of the HTS22GCMARCC

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The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
561 of 652 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Holly Springs, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at [email protected]. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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Freezer wouldn't maintain temperature ... got warm.
297 of 353 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-hel p sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)

The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.

In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
305 of 404 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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