EasyApplianceParts is now PartSelect! We've merged our sites to provide a better shopping experience for you.   Full Details
✖

Find Parts

Parts Departments

Top Model Types

Top Brands

Repair Help

Expert Repair Videos

Keep typing for more specific results...

HST20DBPAWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$30.53
In Stock
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(69)
Part #WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X10068
$35.95
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WR50X10068
This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, by turning off the defrost heater at the end of the defrost cycle. This part attaches to the tubing of the evaporator coil in the freezer. A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees. If this high limit thermostat is open at room temperature or colder, it is defective. This limit thermostat has an attached mounting clip and comes with pink and amber wire leads. The thermostat is 1 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, the 2 wire leads are 10 inches long.
Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
$69.02
In Stock
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
Main Control Board Assembly – Part Number: WR55X10942C
$381.06
In Stock
Main Control Board Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(18)
Part #WR55X10942C
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerator, and measures 8 inches by 5 inches. It’s constructed of metal and plastic, and comes in green. This kit includes one main control board with built in defrost controls. If broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$21.95
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$16.05
In Stock
Compression Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
$16.05
In Stock
Lid Bumper
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
EVAPORATOR FAN BLADE – Part Number: WR60X30922
$78.38
In Stock
EVAPORATOR FAN BLADE
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WR60X30922
This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. If your refrigerator is noisy and you hear a clicking sound, it is a good indication that the evaporator fan blade is warped or damaged. If the fridge or freezer sections become too warm, the fan could be to blame as well.
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey – Part Number: WR02X11331
$16.23
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR02X11331
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unusually noisy, it could be because the grommet is damaged. This grommet is made of grey plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. To access the fan grommet and complete this repair, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly. This part is sold individually.
Evaporator Fan With Thermistor – Part Number: WR60X10074
$131.36
In Stock
Evaporator Fan With Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WR60X10074
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated. The thermistor snaps on to the top portion of the evaporator. The thermistor sends the evaporator temperature signals to the main control board. The thermistor must be replaced when replacing the evaporator fan.
Condenser Fan Motor - 12V – Part Number: WR60X10209
$78.26
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor - 12V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR60X10209
This DC fan motor moves air across the condenser coils and compressor to help remove heat. A failed motor may cause poor cooling, a hot compressor, or humming and squealing sounds. Before replacing it, clean the coils and check the fan blade, wiring, and air path for dirt or damage. Confirm fit with the full appliance model, 4-pin plug, and 11.3- to 12-volt rating. Unplug the refrigerator before removing the rear panel. Keep hands away from the blade, protect the cooling lines, and reinstall the panel before testing the unit.

Common Symptoms of the HST20DBPAWH

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Ice box and freezer would not get cold,the back wall of the freezer was covered with ice
570 of 611 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Aledo, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. I had to defrost the ice off of the back wall of the freezer with a blowdryer.
2. Removed the four 1/4'' screws and removed the back panel.
3. Defrosted all of the ice off the coils and heater.
4. I replaced the defrost thermostat and heater by following the directions that came with them. The directions are very clear a nd easy to follow. I had a single element heater, and the replacement was a double element, the directions even explained how to rearrange the wires to make it work. The whole job only really consisted of cutting two wires that are color coded on the thermostat and resplicing the new ones in. I used scotch locks and electrical tape for the splices. The element had connectors on it so I just removed two screws, unplugged two wires and plugged them on the new one.
The greatest thing about this repair was that I troubleshot the problem using the PartSelect website, ordered the parts and they arrived at my house in less than 24 hours.
Thank You.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
606 of 738 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from San Clemente, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
561 of 652 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Holly Springs, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at [email protected]. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!