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HRT18F2APS Haier Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for HRT18F2APS

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
SCREW 3.9MM X 16MM – Part Number: WR01X27333
$15.00
In Stock
SCREW 3.9MM X 16MM
Part #WR01X27333
Defrost Control Board – Part Number: WR09X28646
$65.45
In Stock
Defrost Control Board
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR09X28646
This is a control board meant to control the defrosting function within various compatible models of refrigerator. This is a genuine OEM part that is sold by itself, without any other hardware. This control board communicates with various temperature sensors/thermistors to prevent excessive frost buildup on the evaporator coils and connects directly within the cold control housing of your refrigerator. If you notice excessive frost or ice buildup, or the opposite in abnormally warmer temperatures within your refrigerator, it would be worth inspecting this board. You can also test this control board for continuity with a multimeter if you suspect it has failed from electrical problems. You will need a screwdriver to gain access to the housing the control board is kept in, in order for you to remove it. To replace it, disconnect your fridge from its wall outlet and unscrew the securing hardware from the housing with the control board. Remove any wire harnesses or cables connected to the control board and now you can install the new one or test the old one. Then simply reassemble the housing.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL – Part Number: WR09X30047
$55.20
In Stock
R134 DRIER – Part Number: WR86X25269
$64.76
In Stock
R134 DRIER
Part #WR86X25269
The filter dryer filters refrigerant that travels through the sealed system of the refrigerator.
Evaporator Motor – Part Number: WR60X28561
$75.94
In Stock
Evaporator Motor
Part #WR60X28561
18 CRISPER GLASS – Part Number: WR71X27292
$88.29
Special Order
18 CRISPER GLASS
Part #WR71X27292
TOP RAIL – Part Number: WJ86X21742
$24.67
In Stock
TOP RAIL
Part #WJ86X21742
WHEEL COVER Vegetable PAN – Part Number: WR01X27361
$15.00
Special Order
WHEEL COVER Vegetable PAN
Part #WR01X27361
KNOB AIR TOWER – Part Number: WR02X27311
No Longer Available
KNOB AIR TOWER
Part #WR02X27311
BLADE EVAP FAN Assembly – Part Number: WR60X27275
$22.52
Special Order
BLADE EVAP FAN Assembly
Part #WR60X27275
LEVELING LEG – Part Number: WR01X27675
$15.00
Special Order
LEVELING LEG
Part #WR01X27675

Common Symptoms of the HRT18F2APS

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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