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GSIW36WHJ2 Uni Refrigerator - Overview

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Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V – Part Number: 215846602
$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(44)
Part #215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: 5303917954
$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
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(7)
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repair, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side – Part Number: 5303323480
$26.35
Special Order
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
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(3)
Part #5303323480
The right-side door shelf end cap is designed for use in your refrigerator. The function of this part is to connect the shelf bar to the refrigerator door, and hold it in place. This part fits the right-side of your refrigerator door shelf, the left-side door shelf end cap is sold separately. This part is made entirely out of plastic, and is white in color. This product measures approximately 1-inch in width by 1-inch in length. Many of our customers have rated this repair as very easy. The only tool you may need is a soft-faced hammer. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side – Part Number: 5303323481
$26.35
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
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(1)
Part #5303323481
This white door shelf end cap is used for left side of some refrigerator door shelves.
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 5300158289
$106.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
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(7)
Part #5300158289
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has a diameter of 1/8 inches and is 1-1/4 inches long. The function of the evaporator fan motor is that it supplies air to the evaporator coils which then circulate cool air throughout your refrigerator, efficiently keeping your fresh food compartment cold. The tools you will need for this installation include a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Keep your hands protected during this repair by wearing work gloves.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: 5308000010
$53.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
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Part #5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Light Socket – Part Number: 218906802
$31.47
In Stock
Light Socket
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(10)
Part #218906802
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light socket. This light socket is made of white plastic with two metal prongs. The light socket is located inside the refrigerator. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, simply pop the old socket out with a small flat blade screwdriver and disconnect the wires. Then simply reconnect the wires to the new socket, and snap it in place with the locking tab.
Hexagonal Screw – Part Number: 241710601
$25.25
In Stock
Hexagonal Screw
Part #241710601
Sold individually.
Door Hinge Pin Bearing – Part Number: 218519300
No Longer Available
Door Hinge Pin Bearing
Part #218519300
This white hinge pin bearing pivots the freezer and refrigerator door.
Door Shelf Bar - White - Cut to fit – Part Number: 5308013640
No Longer Available
Door Shelf Bar - White - Cut to fit
Part #5308013640
Sold individually.
Hex Head Screw – Part Number: 5304455650
No Longer Available
Hex Head Screw
Part #5304455650
Sold individually.
Filter - Drier – Part Number: 5303305677
$39.82
In Stock
Filter - Drier
Part #5303305677
A filter-drier in a refrigerator has two essential functions. The first is to absorb system contaminants, such as water, which can create acids. The second is to provide physical filtration. This means trapping moisture, small metal chips, and dirt found in the refrigerant gas. If your refrigerator motor is constantly running, but the refrigerator is not getting cold, the issue could be due to a damaged or faulty filter-drier. Faulty filter-driers are sometimes the cause for abnormal freezer compartment temperatures and partially frosted evaporators. This filter-drier is approximately 11 inches long. Remember to disconnect the power from your refrigerator before beginning this repair.

Common Symptoms of the GSIW36WHJ2

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Warrington, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re moved.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jordan from Maumee, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tad from Lancaster, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc . After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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