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GRS24WNCD3 Gibson Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for GRS24WNCD3
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$10.11
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
Part #215267701
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf. It is white in color, made of plastic material and measures about 2 inches high by 3 inches deep. This might need to be replaced if it has broken or worn over time. This repair requires no tools. You will need to open your fridge,...Read more pull upwards on the existing end cap, and pull outwards. There is a locking tab on either end so it does not matter if the top or bottom comes out first. Slide the new end cap onto the rail and it is installed.
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$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance...Read more. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
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$87.51
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly
Part #241798231
This 8-cube ice maker is used to create ice for your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold in to the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the l...Read moreimit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. Please remember to disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
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$116.12
In Stock
$123.09
In Stock
$27.45
In Stock
Light Bulb
Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
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$57.15
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
Part #215366002
This white door shelf bar is approximately 31 inches long and provides storage space on your refrigerator door. If it becomes loose, cracked, or detached, it needs to be replaced. A damaged shelf bar can lead to sagging and insufficient support for your groceries. To remove the old shelf bar, release the retaining clips or brackets and sl...Read moreide it out carefully. You can cut this retainer bar to fit your fridge model. When purchasing this OEM replacement part, check how many your fridge needs as this shelf bar is sold individually.
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$56.05
In Stock
Run Capacitor
Part #5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy ...Read moreproject. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
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$95.86
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
Part #5303918277
This replacement icemaker may also be known as the ice maker assembly and is compatible with your refrigerator/freezer. This assembly replaces the heat-release ice maker unit only. The kit comes with four round female connectors at the end of the wire harness. It also comes with the adaptor that converts the harness to three round female,...Read more and one round male connectors. The tools you will need in order to make this installation include a 1/4-inch nut driver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Before starting this repair make sure to unplug your refrigerator and shut off the water supply.
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$41.75
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repa...Read moreir, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
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$14.89
On Order
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
Part #3206165
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the right side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
$20.85
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
Part #3206166
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the left side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over one inch long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Common Symptoms of the GRS24WNCD3
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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these parts
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Ice maker not making ice
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these parts
these parts
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Freezer section too warm
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these parts
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Freezer not defrosting
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these parts
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Noisy
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Door won’t open or close
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Clicking sound
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Not dispensing water
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Doesn’t stop running
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these parts
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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