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GRS20HRHW3 Gibson Refrigerator - Overview

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Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side – Part Number: 215267701
$10.11
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
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Part #215267701
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf. It is white in color, made of plastic material and measures about 2 inches high by 3 inches deep. This might need to be replaced if it has broken or worn over time. This repair requires no tools. You will need to open your fridge, pull upwards on the existing end cap, and pull outwards. There is a locking tab on either end so it does not matter if the top or bottom comes out first. Slide the new end cap onto the rail and it is installed.
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V – Part Number: 215846602
$40.84
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
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Part #215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Door Shelf End Cap  - Left or Right Side – Part Number: 215473602
$12.05
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
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Part #215473602
The door shelf end cap, or door bin support, secures the rack in a refrigerator or freezer door. Note that this fits on either the left or right hand side. If the end caps of your refrigerator or freezer are broken or cracked, or if your food retainer bar is not staying in place, then replacing the door support can solve this problem. No tools are needed for this repair project. To repair, first remove the end cap by pushing upward or downwards to slide it out the end of the rail. Next, replace with new end cap and line it up to clip it back onto the rail. It comes in white and measures about two inches high. Remember to wear gloves for safety.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: 297216600
$32.24
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
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Part #297216600
This refrigerator defrost thermostat is a genuine OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. Located on the back wall of the freezer section in the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is used to regulate the appliances temperature to keep the refrigerator cold and constant. The part is made of plastic, and has a 4 inch terminal on the white lead and a 6 inch terminal on the red lead. A refrigerator defrost thermostat may need to be replaced if the appliance is experiencing temperature related issues such as: too cold, too warm, frost buildup, not running, or running too long.
Light Bulb – Part Number: 316538904
$27.45
In Stock
Light Bulb
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Part #316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: 5304464438
$56.05
In Stock
Run Capacitor
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Part #5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy project. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
Evaporator Fan Blade – Part Number: 5308000010
$53.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
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Part #5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Upper Crisper Drawer – Part Number: 5303288971
$121.09
Special Order
Upper Crisper Drawer
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Part #5303288971
The front for this part is sold separately or you can use your existing part.
Handle Mounting Block – Part Number: 218396700
$54.51
In Stock
Screw – Part Number: 215503203
$14.79
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #215503203
Cross Recessed Pan Head Screw Size: 10-16 X 0.500
Hexagonal Screw – Part Number: 241710601
$25.25
In Stock
Hexagonal Screw
Part #241710601
Sold individually.
Lower Crisper Drawer - Front NOT Included – Part Number: 5303288968
No Longer Available
Lower Crisper Drawer - Front NOT Included
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(3)
Part #5303288968
Front must be ordered separately.

Common Symptoms of the GRS20HRHW3

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freezer would not defrost
185 of 208 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Orangevale, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My freezer would freeze up and not allow cold air to refrigerator side. First I took off bottom face plate, located the timer on left side bottom, removed the two screws and unpluged the timer. Replaced the timer with new one. Second I removed all food from freezer. Took of back of freezer wall with nut driver. Located the thermostat whic h was very easy to remove. Just one clip holding thermostat. Unplugged the two wires from the old thermostat and plugged in new wires. Thanks to Partselect.com, the parts were an exact match. Very easy to do. Saved my tons of money. Freezer and refer works like new.
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Freezer coil frosting up solid. Refrigerator warming
105 of 117 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Newark, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
First - I asked a person familiar in ref/freezer repair for assistance. This was the hardest issue - trying to find someone to offer "free" advise. He stated that when this problem occurs it is usually one of two things: 1) The defrost timer (underneath Refrigerator - Attached w/2 screws and plug-n connector) not functioning or 2) The de frost sensor (clipped-on to the coolant line (2-press-on wires) above the main coolant coil in in rear of freezer section behind panel secured w/5 1/4" hex-head screws) not properly sensing need for defrosting. The Tech. also stated that the defrost/heat coil, which surrounds the large coolant coil in the back of the freezer hardly ever goes bad unless it is the glass/clear type coil which often crack. (Mine was the black filament type element like found in an electric oven). I check the element with an ohm meter - 27 ohms of resistance which indicated it was okay). I replaced both defrost timer & defrost sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Parts ordered were an exact match to originals (dispite model number changes/upgrades) and everything went very well. NOTE: It is good to have the part numbers off of each original item and know what they are called before placing your order. All fixed for less than $50.00. A service call alone would be more than this. Took about 2 hours to do, due to having to defost the iced-up freezer coil w/a hair blower. Don't use sharp objects to chip away ice, let the blower do the work - Patience and a couple of towels to absorb water is important here. Hope this helps the other do-it-yourselfers.
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Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tad from Lancaster, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc . After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
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