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GRCP3700R-1 General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for GRCP3700R-1

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Door Handle End Cap – Part Number: WB7X7183
No Longer Available
Door Handle End Cap
★★★★★
★★★★★
(43)
Part #WB7X7183
This oven door handle end cap is used on both the left and right hand sides. Sold individually.
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
$147.53
In Stock
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.
Door Handle – Part Number: WB15K5076
$59.18
In Stock
Door Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WB15K5076
This replacement door handle is designed to fit select range models and provides a secure grip for opening and closing the oven door. Measuring approximately 22 inches by 1 inch, it is constructed from durable black plastic for long-lasting performance. If your current handle is broken or missing, this genuine OEM part offers a reliable solution. Depending on your model, installation may require removing the inner panel of the oven door. Always refer to your owner's manual and wear work gloves for safety during installation.
Light Cover – Part Number: WB36X192
$26.39
In Stock
Light Cover
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WB36X192
This light bulb lens covers the interior light bulb in an oven, range, or stove. No tools are necessary to replace this part. Simply slide off the wire bracket to remove the existing light bulb lens. Disconnect power to your appliance before this repair. It is recommended to check the light bulb while the lens cover is removed in case it needs to be replaced. Be sure to remove all broken glass, if applicable, before installing new lens. This part is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer, and is sold individually.
Screws - Package of 12 – Part Number: WB1X500D
$13.92
Special Order
Screws - Package of 12
Part #WB1X500D
These are replacement screws designed to fit your range. They are made of metal and are approximately ¼ inch long. They come in a package of 12. These are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Oven Door Bottom Trim - Black – Part Number: WB07K10232
$31.62
In Stock
Washer - 12 Pack – Part Number: WB1X119D
$24.09
On Order
Washer - 12 Pack
Part #WB1X119D
Inner Door Glass – Part Number: WB36X5712
No Longer Available
Inner Door Glass
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WB36X5712
This inner door glass is sold individually.
Leveling Leg – Part Number: WB2X8248
No Longer Available
Leveling Leg
Part #WB2X8248
Door End Cap - Black - Right Side – Part Number: WB7X7289
No Longer Available
RETAINER – Part Number: WB2X2030
$28.42
Special Order
RETAINER
Part #WB2X2030

Common Symptoms of the GRCP3700R-1

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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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The end caps broke on my oven door handle.
45 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Thomasville, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1st I opened the oven door and removed the 2 screws that hold the outside and inside of the door together. With the door separated I removed the 2 screws that hold the end caps in place, then removed the old end caps. I put the new end caps on the oven door handle, aligned the holes for the end cap screws and reinstalled the screws,then reinstalled the oven door screws,closed the oven door and started cooking.
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Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
40 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
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