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GD1329LED LG Dryer - Overview

Diagrams for GD1329LED

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Thermal Fuse – Part Number: 6931EL3003D
$19.30
In Stock
Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(28)
Part #6931EL3003D
This thermal fuse acts as a high-limit thermostat, and shuts off the heating element when the dryer overheats by cutting off power to the dryer. If the thermal fuse has blown, the dryer will not start. These fuses cannot be reset, so if yours has blown, you will need to replace it. A common reason for the thermal fuse to blow on a dryer is if the exhaust vent on your dryer is restricted or blocked. Hot air will be confined in the dryer and the fuse will trip and stop the electricity from flowing to the gas valve or heating element.
Moisture Sensor – Part Number: 6500EL3001A
$21.45
In Stock
Moisture Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
Part #6500EL3001A
The sensor controls the temperature in your dryer and will turn off once your clothes have reached the desired dryness level. If you notice that your dryer is not giving off enough heat to dry the clothes or is taking too long to dry, this may indicate that a repair to the senor is required. To access this part, you will need to remove the front bulk head. To remove this, you will need to remove the screws securing the top. Uninstall the screws that support the control panel and lift. Remove screws holding the support bracket in place so you can detach this piece. Detach the wire harness and remove the wire, then set the bracket aside. You will now open the dryer door and release it by taking out the bottom two screws. Disconnect the wire harness and moisture sensor wire harness, remove screws from front bulk head, and remove screws that secure the duct housing. You should be able to completely remove the bulk head. You will find the sensor underneath the lint filter grill, which will also need to be removed.
Blower Thermostat – Part Number: 6931EL3002M
$51.61
In Stock
Blower Thermostat
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★★★★★
(8)
Part #6931EL3002M
The thermostat is a part for your dryer, and it is roughly 1 inch long by roughly 1.5 inches wide. The purpose of the thermostat is to measure the temperature of the air inside your dryer drum. As the air is being measured, it will turn the heat on or off in order to maintain a stable temperature within the drum. The most common reason you would need to replace your thermostat is if your dryer is not receiving enough heat, or any heat at all.The tools you will need to complete this repair include a Phillips screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit – Part Number: AGM30045804
$96.17
In Stock
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit
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★★★★★
(14)
Part #AGM30045804
This dryer thermistor temperature sensor helps monitor and regulate the temperature inside a dryer. This part includes the wire harness. If your dryer overheats, does not produce enough heat, or takes too long to dry, then the thermistor might be defective or damaged. This can cause a fault code and could begin either prolonging or shortening drying time. As a safety precaution, make sure to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this installation, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Thermostat Assembly – Part Number: 6931EL3001E
$42.12
In Stock
Thermostat Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #6931EL3001E
The high limit thermostat on your dyer prevents your dryer from overheating. When the dryer heats up too much, the high limit thermostat will sense it and automatically shut off the heating element. If the thermostat is malfunctioning, it will need to be replaced, to avoid more serious issues. This product is an OEM part, direct from the manufacturer.
Felt Seal – Part Number: 4036EL3001A
$45.29
In Stock
Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #4036EL3001A
This genuine OEM felt gasket provides a cushioned seal between the inner tub of your electric dryer and the rear panel. It prevents your clothes from getting snagged and helps in heat retention. You will find it around the circumference of the drum. The most typical reason for replacing the felt seal is when it becomes worn. It is important to note that this rear seal is sold separately from the front seal and the adhesive needed to install it.
Safety Switch Assembly – Part Number: EBF61496102
$47.40
In Stock
Pulley Idle – Part Number: 4560EL3001A
$30.53
In Stock
Dryer Locker Assembly – Part Number: 4027EL1001A
$29.47
In Stock
Baffle – Part Number: 4432EL1002A
$47.40
Special Order
Hinge – Part Number: 4774EL2001A
$96.17
In Stock
Motor Pulley Assembly – Part Number: 4561EL3002A
$65.73
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the GD1329LED

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Dryer would run with no heat
98 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from ORMOND BEACH, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal f use was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.
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The dryer worked fine except the dryer did not heat up
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from COVINGTON, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of t he back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.
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No heat; flow-sense error diagnosed but no blockage in exhaust.
17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.
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