The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This is a self-tapping sheet metal screw and is used in conjunction with multiple appliances in your household. This part is size eight and has 18 threads to the inch. The AB in the name indicates tha...
This water tubing clip, also known as a P-clamp, is usually used within refrigerators and freezers to organize the water line and tubing, but due to its versatility, this clip may also be used in othe...
This is a door shelf retainer bar end cap kit for a refrigerator. This kit contains two end caps that are made entirely of plastic and are white in color. They are each under 2 inches tall. This part ...
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue wit...
The defrost control in your refrigerator acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater, keeping your refrigerator at the appropr...
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s
... Read moreo it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
