The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Befor...Read moree you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the intern...Read moreal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
This is the electronic clock timer mechanism only. The overlay or touch pad is NOT included. To get the overlay, please use the model# of your appliance to search.
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the p...Read moreower from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
Oven racks can become rusted or damaged from constant use, and need to be properly maintained and cleaned to keep them working properly. If you notice that your oven rack has been damaged or rusted, the rack should be replaced. This oven rack has two anchor points on either side to keep it stable and secure within the oven. This ensures t...Read morehat your food stays in place when baking, and allows you to remove pots and pans without the threat of the entire rack falling out in the process. This metal oven rack measures 16 inches long x 23 inches wide, and is sold individually.
This tempered glass is supplied by the original manufacturer and measures 20 inches by 13 inches. It is an inner door glass, designed for use in ranges/ovens and has several purposes which include providing heat insulation, acting as protective barrier, and providing an opening to monitor the cooking/heating process. Over time the glass c...Read morean break or break from impact, thermal shock, or improper installation. If the glass is defective, it needs to be replaced promptly to avoid leaking, loss of insulation and potential harm to the user. Remove any fasteners or clips that secure the glass and carefully dispose of it. Position the new glass in the same position and secure it appropriately.
This oven broil element is a high-performance heating component designed to deliver intense, direct heat from the top of the oven cavity. Measuring approximately 12 ½ inches by 18 ½ inches, it operates at 3000 watts and 240 volts, making it suitable for broiling and contributing to certain baking functions. Positioned at the top interior ...Read moreof the oven, it ensures even heat distribution for optimal cooking results. This element is commonly used as a replacement in electric ranges experiencing reduced or no heat during broil or bake cycles. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, removing the old element, and securing the new one using existing mounting brackets and electrical connectors. It is compatible with a variety of household ranges and is engineered for durability and consistent performance.
This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If your glide is damaged or missing, replacing it could solve any difficulty using the drawer. First, remove the storage drawer and locate the ...Read morerear glide on the side. Next, remove the glide by taking out the screws. Replace new glide by placing tabs into the cut-out. If you are replacing both rear drawer glides, then repeat the same on the other side. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and guidance.
This part is a replacement clock overlay for your range. It is black in color and approximately 7 inches by 3 inches. The clock overlay is found on the control panel, and it covers and labels the selection buttons of the oven control board. If the touchpad will not respond, or the oven will not start, you may need to replace the clock ove...Read morerlay. Be sure to disconnect the range from the power source before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part.
This part is the heatsource. This surface element is for ranges.
Surface element supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This front drawer glide supports the bottom storage or broil drawer, allowing it to slide smoothly in and out of the range. Designed to reduce friction and keep the drawer properly aligned, it helps ensure easy and stable operation. Replacing a worn or damaged glide can fix issues such as sticking, tilting, or uneven movement, restoring normal drawer function.
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Kristopher - For model number FFEF3043LSK
February 10, 2020
The top range well heat up but broil and bake well not get hot at all
Hello Kristopher, thank you for your question. If both the elements quit working at the same time and the stove top still works, then you may have to replace the control board. When the control board goes bad, it can still function partially (clock works, buttons work, ect) but not send power to the elements. If you want to verify that the control board is bad, then you would need to do a voltage test at the element. The bake and broil elements should both see 240 volts from the control board to function properly. If you do not see any voltage, then the control board will need to be replaced.
The display on my stove gave me an error code of F 11 and started low beeping then switched to high beeping. It stopped for a few minutes then started again doing the same pattern of beeping. I unplugged it for a few minutes and then plugged it back in which made the code go away. Can you explain what caused this and what would i need to replace to prevent the stove from being unusable?
Hello Anthony, thank you for reaching out. We have researched and found that the error code F11 indicates a shorted key error. We would recommend checking the control board, part number PS12728848, to fix the issue. We hope this helps!
I want to change the oven light that burnt out. What is the procedure
Hello Gary, Thank you for the question. You will need to first turn off power to the appliance but unplugging it from the outlet or switching off at the breaker. With a work glove, grasp the bulb and turn to the left to loosen and remove the bulb. Insert the new bulb and turn right to tighten the new bulb. Careful not to over tighten and break the bulb. Turn the power back onto the appliance and test to see if the light works. We hope this helps.
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Wes - For model number FFEF3043LSK
October 27, 2024
The oven does not work. The bake or broiler heating elements are not working
Hi Wes,
Thank you for your question. If the oven is not heating correctly, the issue may be with the oven sensor. The oven temperature sensor is the part that monitors the oven temperature and signals the electronic control board to turn the elements on and off. Before removing this part from the oven and testing it with a multimeter for continuity, unplug the oven from the electrical outlet. A normal reading should be 1100 ohms, but as readings vary from model to model, you will need to reference your owner’s manual to determine what the correct reading should be. To test it for continuity, use a multimeter on the Rx1 setting and touch the terminals with the probes. This test needs to be done with the sensor at room temperature to produce accurate results. If your test results do not meet the manufacturer’s guidelines, you need a replacement temperature sensor. If the sensor is fine, you will need to check the elements, the electronic control board and the wiring between the parts to see which one is causing the issue. We hope this helps with the repair!
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Back Burner didn't function
136 of 152 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
William from Burke, VA
Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Oven elements would not heat
119 of 133 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
earl from seattle, WA
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Initially, I tested the temperature sensor and it was OK. I pulled out the range and shut off the circuit breaker to it. I removed the upper back sheet metal panel to expose the clock timer. I removed the 4 screws to it, unplugged the wires to it and plugged them into the new clock timer. I carefully removed the plastic facing stuck t
... Read moreo the face of the old clock timer and stuck it on the new clock timer. No new adhesive was necessary. I placed the newly connected clock timer in position and secured it with the 4 screws that secured the old clock timer. I pushed the range back into position and reset the circuit breaker. I turned the oven on and the problem was resolved.
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Range would not come on
107 of 192 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
MaryLou from Monroe, NC
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe. I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up. the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wir
... Read morees. After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.
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