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FCM15HDPW General Electric Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for FCM15HDPW

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Key – Part Number: WR01X26468
No Longer Available
Key
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR01X26468
This key is for freezers. If your key will not lock or unlock the freezer door, check it to see if it has been bent or damaged. If it has been damaged, you should look to replace it to avoid damaging the lock. The key should engage the locking mechanism with ease. These keys are sold separately, and should be stored somewhere safe and not next to the unit.
Gasket – Part Number: WR24X10005
No Longer Available
Gasket
Part #WR24X10005
Drain Plug – Part Number: WR02X10073
No Longer Available
Drain Plug
Part #WR02X10073
PLUG DRAIN EXTERIOR – Part Number: WR02X12063
$46.34
Special Order
PLUG DRAIN EXTERIOR
Part #WR02X12063
Inner Lid Panel - White – Part Number: WR77X10062
No Longer Available
Inner Lid Panel - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR77X10062
Not the complete lid.
Freezer Switch Light – Part Number: WR23X10303
No Longer Available
Freezer Switch Light
Part #WR23X10303
LEVELNG JACK – Part Number: WR2X5676
No Longer Available
LEVELNG JACK
Part #WR2X5676
COLD CONTROL KNOB – Part Number: WR02X10860
$59.47
Special Order
COLD CONTROL KNOB
Part #WR02X10860
Freezer Screw Hex Washer Head 1 – Part Number: WR01X10823
$41.07
Special Order
HOSE ADAPTER – Part Number: WR1X1965
$44.23
Special Order
HOSE ADAPTER
Part #WR1X1965
HANDLE CHROME – Part Number: WR12X10072
No Longer Available
HANDLE CHROME
Part #WR12X10072
GASKET S LID – Part Number: WR14X419
No Longer Available
GASKET S LID
Part #WR14X419
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Moldy Gasket
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ouida from Huntsville, AL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This freezer was given to me by a neigbor. It had set closed/unplugged for over a year. The gasket was so moldy I couldn't clean it. Unplug the freezer! I removed the old gasket pins using needle nose pliers. There were about 50 plastic pens holding the gasket and inside cover of the freezer lid (chest freezer) The plastic pens were difficult to remove. The insulation was wet so I braced the lid open and let the insulation dry for a couple of days. When the insulation was dry I attached a plastic pen at each corner of the gasket and then placed pens at even intervals around the rest of the gasket.. None of the holes lined up past the 3rd hole so I used a punch to make the necessary holes. The instructions say to put a bead of silicone gel around the outer edge of the gasket. I haven't done that yet but plan to do that last step.
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The freezer was missing the key
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from las cruces, NM
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered a pair of new keys from Parts Select and found the website extremely easy to use. I found the key I needed in less than 10 minutes and ordered the item. The key woked perfectly. Delivery was prompt and the cost was resonable. I have bookmarked the site for future use. thank you. James
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Two of the two leveling jacks of this old refrigerator were missing and had to be replaced.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce K from RESTON, VA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I ordered four leveling jacks from this site for the refrigerator using a slightly different model number (my model was not listed). I assumed that the jacks all had the same shaft diameter and thread size. However, it turned out that the two front jacks had half-inch shaft diameters. It could be that originally there were rollers in fro nt. The two rear jacks had quarter-inch shafts with "feet" for supporting them on the floor. So, I had to return the four jacks I had ordered and find another solution. I found two half-inch threaded bolts at the local hardware store that fit the front holes perfectly. I purchased 3.5 inch bolts to give me enough room to find the proper adjustment. I used wooden blocks and a crow bar to raise one side of the refrigerator high enough to screw in the leveling jacks. I used an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the bolts' hex heads until they were the proper height. I used the two original quarter-inch jacks in the rear holes and adjusted them to the proper height to level the refrigerator on the concrete floor where it is located. Then I removed the wooden blocks and tested to make sure the refrigerator did not wobble. I found that using the two bolts (no leveling jacks for the front holes could be found) for the front jacks proved to be the ideal solution. The job took me about thirty minutes, including the time it took to move the refrigerator into its final location and adjust the leveling jacks once more to create a solid stance so that the refrigerator did not wobble. While I had the refrigerator away from the wall, I removed the rear panel and cleaned the blades of the cooler fan and removed dust and dirt build up near the compressor with a vacuum cleaner. Then, I screwed the panel back into position, moved the refrigerator into its final place in a corner of the garage and made sure there was enough air space around it to allow for proper air circulation. This took me about twenty more minutes. I plugged it back in and listened to it come alive again. It is old but has never needed a repair and keeps everything cooled or frozen. I would suggest using threaded hex-head bolts in place of original leveling jacks if they cannot be obtained. Problem solved.
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